Twinwood Trail

Friday 15 December 1944, at 40 years of age, Glenn Miller left RAF Twinwood  to fly with two others to Paris. Their single engined plane disappeared over the English Channel, leaving behind a huge chasm in the big band world.

Miller's music remained; and seventy three years after his death, the Glenn Miller Orchestra under Ray McVay returned to Twinwood. So did we.

This blog is about our third visit to the Twinwood Festival at Clapham near Bedford. It is about music, dancing, vintage, camping and friendship; and gives a little glimpse into two decades of Twentieth Century.

It is just before noon on Thursday 24 August. Stephanie and I are passing through Milton Ernest on the A6 Bedford Road  in our Auto Trail Tracker. As we approach Church Green a dark green Hillman Fourteen pulls out sharply in front of us from the entrance to Milton Ernest Hall. The hurrying driver is Lt Col Norman F Baessell, the off side passenger pilot F/O John Morgan. We catch a momentary view of a man in the rear near side seat. He appears tall and slim with rimless spectacles. His black hair is brushed back with Brylcreem, revealing a high and distinguished forehead. We catch the sound of voices, and discern an American accent.

Within a mile, the Hillman turns into Milton Road and a mile later into Twinwood Road taking the entry to Twinwood airfield. Whilst we wait in a row of stationary motorhomes and caravans, it speeds unhindered towards the control tower, skidding to a halt on the cinders by a stubby UC-64 Norseman. By the time we enter the airfield, the plane is leaving the runway climbing into a mackerel sky. I squint into the southern sun, but all I see is a greying dot. From behind the control tower comes the sound of Moonlight Serenade. He has left; but his legacy remains.

This, our third Twinwood visit, is marked by supreme organisation. The Twinwoodians, headed by Zoe and John Wolicki, Ann and Peter Barrett, Stephanie Rose and me have reserved five adjacent camping pitches on Campsite B, just a short stroll from the access track to the arena. Having overnighted at Grafham Water, we are the first to arrive. We take an end pitch as gatehouse and set up camp. Within the hour other Twinwoodians arrive, and by nightfall we sport a full-size living room (courtesy of Peter Lewis) and a flamingo decorated bedroom (courtesy of John Wolicki). Before long Stephanie and I are dancing.

There are some things you really need to know about thriving at Twinwood before you come.

The first is how to dress. Most first-timers cautiously take an understated line, hoping to blend into the background. At Twinwood there is no background, other than seventy years of fashion history. You can survive without food or alcohol - but not without your best vintage wardrobe. Twinwood is about dressing to impress. Nothing is 'over the top' - there is no top. There is a bottom occupied by the few dowdy day trippers who have self consciously not made the effort. Here are the best-pressed uniforms, the handmade shoes, 1940's buttoned dresses, 1950's circle skirts filled with petticoats, tweed suits with fob watches, trilby hats and spats. You simply have to dress to enter the era - whichever one you have chosen to access.

Second - get talking. Twinwood is about bands, music and dance. But it is also about a cultural history - a time when people greeted each other, knew their neighbours, complimented and engaged. Anonymity has no place at Twinwood. It is possible to be shy and reserved, but the greatest joy comes from meeting other enthusiasts, some of whom have created whole new personas for you to explore. So ditch the reserve, make eye contact, conversation and find out their story.

Third - the performances. With acts like 'The Manfreds' it is tempting to play it safe, park your folding chairs in the arena, and take up residence there for the weekend. Our advice is 'forget the big names, and hunt out new talent'. With thirteen venues - Arena, Control Tower, Colonial Club, Le Monde Electrique, Moonshine Glade, Liberty Stage, Nags Head, Casablanca Club, Cafe de Bois de Jumeau, Dance Marquee, Hangar Bar, Tin Hat & Carnaby Club and Soulshack - it is quite possible to find enough gems for an eternity ring. For 2017 there were 55 acts over 4 days. As will be evident from the Twinwoodians Facebook page, the headline acts were less of interest than the peripheral performers who produced acts to delight.

 Fourth - dance. Many visitors to Twinwood don't dance either by choice, necessity or inability. It is not a problem for there are dozens of foot-tapping events that will keep you entertained for hours on end, or simply watch Twinwoodians Neil and Carla Warren, the award winning ballroom experts. But with such great bands and fabulous music spanning the 40's to the 70's, being able to get onto the dance floor makes a huge difference to how you will feel about the weekend. Each day there are dance classes at all levels covering Swing, Lindy, Charleston, Balboa and Rock & Roll in the Colonial Club, Marquee, and Tin Hat. Get along to find a partner or learn a few solo steps. Better, take a few modern jive lessons before you come, so you can hit the floor dancing.

Twinwood 2017 was a massive hit, blessed with glorious sunshine. Eight raindrops fell on Saturday before we woke, and thereafter all that remained was for the stewards to complain about a sea of parasols in the arena. Will Twinwood 2018 be so kind? We hope so, and trust that you too will enjoy this headline event with great bands and new friends.

In Scotland Again - Killin to Bunree: Episode 3

Those readers familiar with H V Morton's 'In Search of Scotland' and 'In Scotland Again' will already have issues with our route. We have not been strictly faithful to Morton's 1933 account and have slipped between his two journeys. Our trip has taken us to Ayr (as did Morton's in 1929) - and not to Arran. But that is how travel works, and I suspect, how occasionally, Morton too used his artistic licence.

However, we are to meet up again with him on the road to Fort William as we head for Bunree, between Onich and Corran on the A82, and this means that his bull-nosed Morris and my Auto Trail Tracker can pass each other in the heart of Glencoe (chapter 10 section 2 of 'In Search of Scotland').

We are already apprehensive, remembering Dicken's words, as quoted by Morton, from 'Foster's Life'  "anything so bleak and wild and mighty in its lonliness, as in the whole country, it is impossible to conceive. Glecoe itself is perfectly terrible. The pass is an awful place". 

Would Morton recognise today's Glencoe? He would continue to marvel at 'a landscape without mercy' - a land 'still dreaming of geological convulsions'. The mountains that border Glencoe remain ominous and overbearing. There is drama - simply from the inescapable landscape. But what of man's efforts to tame the journey? Morton would undoubtedly be saddened. Engineers have cured 'the worst road in Scotland' that 'winds its way through the solitude'; but with the cure, comes the crowd. Yes, the glen is busy as we journey on a September morning - still preserved and uninhabited, but with coaches (and motorhomes) delivering tourists rather than travellers. Morton's shepherd no longer walks his sheep in a 'grey wave over the grass on invisible feet', he rides an ATV. Enchanting Diana's no longer visit in breeches and dubbined boots, they are tamed in designer jeans and trainers as they inspect the glen from the viewing point. And sadly, despite Stephanie and I singing 'D'ye ken John Peel with his coat so gay' we fail to encounter the Highlander Campbell in Crianlarich, or on the mountain.

So we leave the glen behind and reach Loch Leven where the A82 swings to the west along its southern shore which will take us through North Ballachulish, on to Onich and Bunree at Loch Linhee.

Let us return promptly to chapter 6 section 3 of 'In Scotland Again' to rejoin Morton. 'Imaging dark mountains rising from a tidal loch, ridges of trees marching the hills like regiments, the mountains piling up in the distance towards the gloomy fastnesses of Glencoe and Lochaber, the whole scene mirrored in sleety-grey water ruffled at the edges by a fresh wind and swirling in a central channel with an incoming tide'. Like Morton, Stephanie and I have reached the Loch Leven crossing, and pause, looking for Morton's ferry boatman; but instead we see but an expanse of box bridge. The Highlands are surely tamed as 7 metres of motorhome hums across the loch on tarmac. Needless to say, we miss the ferryman's Ancient Mariner's eye and the Renfrewshire traveller. How times change.

To my knowledge, Morton never visited the lochside at Bunree. Had he done so, he would have experienced a true Scottish delight. This is to be our eighth night, and destined to be the start of a longer stay. A single red traffic light turns to green, and we thread our way along the approach road to Bunree site as it opens out into the glorious bay where Loch Linnhe narrows to the Corran crossing.

Our pitch is lochside. Now in spirit we can recreate a sense of Morton's Loch Leven crossing here on Linnhe. Our Auto Trail Tracker faces out to the bay, and sitting in gathering dusk we prepare to navigate out across the loch. The light dims. A single buoy blinks out towards Clovullin and the straits lighthouse spins a flash of warning to our starboard side.

Time to pull the blinds, to return to the Cardhu single malt, and to sleep.

In Scotland Again - Morvich, Kyle of Lochalsh, the Isle of Skye and Talisker: Episode 5

Morvich camping site lies to the east of the A87 in a drowsy, sunlit valley by the river Croe, peering up to Dorusaduain and overlooked by Lienassie.

This is yet another place of joy, back from the loch, but enjoying long views towards Duich.

Here, we caught up again with H V Morton on his 1933 trip, and had hoped to meet his friend Sir John (or his heirs). They clearly had already departed up the valley, so as 'In Scotland Again' at chapter 7 section 6, we decided to venture towards Beinn Fhada in search of our own Red Deer, armed in our case only with a camera.

The walk leaves Morvich towards Loch Duich, but turns sharply north to cross the Croe as if heading on the back route to the A87, then turning east passing the bed and breakfast lodge up the valley into the forest and the hills.

Chapter 7 contains one of Morton's reddish-brown sepia prints. A glance will tell you that, on our way, we found the same herd, spooked as we know by Sir John's sheep, and now gathered attentively below the trees on the other side of the valley awaiting our photo. 

The return route of the walk takes you down from the forest, crossing Abhiann Chonaig at the little footbridge constructed by the Royal Engineers, and back through the fells.

The walk is one of magic. Take a flask, a sandwich, a mat and binoculars. Climb the slope, sit in the bracken and heather and listen to the wind. Then look out for the eagle.

Skye bridge rises from Dornie on Loch Long, just to the north of Eilean Donan Castle. At this point we again leave 'In Scotland Again' to join H V Morton three years earlier in 1929 in chapter nine of 'In Search of Scotland'. You will recall from blog 2 that Robbie of Ayr had tempted me with Talisker, the same as shared with the Highlander Cameron (chapter 10 section 5 of 'In Search of Scotland'). Morton, by his own account, must have acquired his Talisker whilst on Skye as he reported it to be 'that remarkable drink which is made in the Isle of Skye and can be obtained even in its birthplace only with difficulty'. 

And so to Skye - for Talisker. H V Morton left from Mallaig to the south , taking the 'Stornoway' boat up the Sound of Sleat to Kyle of Lochalsh, where the ferry tied up 'to a a wooden jetty covered with pink sea-anemones', and he transferred to the Skye paddle steamer for destination Portree.

'To me it is pure romance. Some stray old wind from Culloden blew, I think, into my nursery when I was a child, for almost the first stories I heard were stories of Skye and of a brown-eyed prince hiding in a cave'....a place 'shrouded in the splendour of a lost cause'.'The sound of it is like a sword going home into its scabbard'.

But where the ferry? No swishing of a paddle steamer. Ahead the Skye bridge rises, then falls onto Skye, and in but two minutes we have arrived at Kyleakin. 

The road from here to Portree is quick, with none of the highland single track. It is made for trucks, buses and campers. Whilst it coils along the north east coast, the island's mountains remains totally unaffected by it. Dark and brooding, they give a feeling of hopelessness, not bleak, but simply ominous. We leave the A87 at Sligachan, heading west and inland on the A683 to Carbost and the distillery. Park beyond the factory to the right down towards the loch, and once equipped with your bottle of Talisker, why not ascend the hill beyond the distillery to lunch at 'The Oyster Shed'. First appearance is of a seafood farm shop - with a fish van outside. Be not fooled! This is the most perfect place to order and eat the widest range of locally sourced fish - especially shell fish, lobster, crab, prawns and scallops. Place your order at the shop counter and wait for your number to be called. Then head round the side to 'the shed' - an open fronted communal eatery with panoramic views over Skye - to devour your choice. The fish is so fresh you can almost feel it breathe. Flavour-packed and perfectly cooked, this provides a true taste of the isle. Take a side order of chips - now this is how chips should taste - and maybe crack open that bottle of Port Ruighe that you have just bought. 

Unlike Morton, who spent time at Portree, packing by candle-light and leaving 'to go down to the jetty where the 'Glencoe' lies, her riding-lights growing pale in the grey dawn', we leave in the evening, crossing the Skye bridge as the sun sets, and the gloom gathers. 

Tomorrow we will head out to Kinlochewe. 

Thanks to the Herald Scotalnd for the pic

In Scotland Again - Kinlochewe and Achiltibue: Episode 6 - final

Leaving Morvich by the back road, we catch the A87 west bound towards Eilean Donan Castle crossing Loch Long at Dornie. At Auchtertyre we branch north on the A890 heading for Achmore and Stromeferry. The road then hugs the loch side until you reach Achintee. From there, the A890 rises north east to Achnasheen, with a west spur on the A832 to Kinlochewe.

Our H V Morton friends will recall that, 'In Scotland Again' Henry headed east to Inverness, and in his less adventurous first journey 'In Search of Scotland', he descended from Fort Augustus to Fort William before venturing out to the western coast and to Skye. Times were different in 1933, and unless roads led to ferries, there was little point in pursuing them to the handful of crofts at the road end.

So we are leaving Morton to his inland journey. But we will retain his spirit of travel, to observe his Scottish wilderness through 21st century eyes; and just as he left his bull-nosed Morris behind, will leave the Auto Trail to walk and share the special Allt a' Chuirn path towards A'Chreag Dhubh.

We camp at Kinlochewe, a gentle site that rests below the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve. Our pitch collects the stream's gentle gurgle. After the mountain roads and tight bends, here is an oasis of calm. Even the nearby reserve has a soft, forested aspect to it with quiet walks on zig-zag stoned paths to the visitor's centre.

Just round from the site on the Torridon Road, Kinlochewe old village hall had probably seen better days before Lis Broome and her pose of helpers arrived to rescue the corrugated iron shed from the scrapman and turn it into The Whistle Stop Café, a vernacular place with oodles of charm and even better food. We visit before taking to the hills, and we are not alone.

Of the many Highland delights, The Whistle Stop Café's must rate as the best big breakfast. Joining Tom and Wendy, two young and intrepid walkers who were to cross the 1010 metres of Beinn Eighe and travel through 20 miles of heather tracks, Stephanie and I hunker down to the feast. This is the meal about which Morton dreamed in chapter 1 section 5 of 'In Scotland Again'.

Our journey is less ambitious. We aimed to walk the Allt a' Chuirn path west from the reserve towards the rugged, rocky Beinn Eighe, rising evenly by tracking the stream that cascades down to the A' Ghairbhe fed from Loch Clair. 

This is a truly magical walk, suitable for the averagely fit walker with three hours or so to spare. If the weather is kind, it is not to be taken at a trot, but savoured slowly with rests in the heather and long views through the valley.

 At the head of the valley where it departs into open, rugged terrain, stop at the waterfall. If the day is hot, drop down to the pool and bathe tired feet. We return down the valley in late afternoon sunshine. There is a sadness about leaving the solitude of the fells for the populated village below, but solace in anticipation of our barbecued 'born in Scotland', 'reared in Scotland', ear-tagged rib eye steak, pre-ordered from Allan at Kenneth Morrison, the camp site's visiting butcher (01445712485). 

Two days later, we head out for our final destination, Achiltibue, or more precisely, Port a Bhaigh campsite at Altandhu.

For Port A Bhaigh you must leave the A835 south of Drumrunie turning sharply out to the west 12 miles on on the narrowest single track road. The unnamed road traverses the north side of small lochs giving views into rugged low lying West Highland countryside. A measure of the terrain - you will need 45 minutes to complete the 12 miles, but using the passing places for moments to collect, we feel the journey as part of the experience. Port A Bhaigh campsite sits on a small bay, protected to the west by Isle Ristol and Eilean Mulagrach, the first of the Summer Islands, their low turf and heather clad moorland rimmed by cream rock shores.

The view is ‘heart-felt’ rather than breath-taking, but it has an intimacy that says you belong here. Ascend the hill to the owner’s pub. With friendly bar and dining room serving snacks and main evening meals, it has a convivial atmosphere. Make the most of it for, to the north, the nearest next pub is in Iceland. Walk the road to Reiff, offering headland views from the coastal path beyond, or hire kayaks for an escorted trip around the islands.

Henry Vollam Morton is still travelling as we return down to Inverness.

Like him, we found that the Highlands seeps into your soul. Gone, or rare, the Gaelic - no more the wood smoked hotel lounges with visiting 

salesmen and khaki-clad maidens. The ferries now pull with diesel engines rather than paddles. 

But the mountains remain solid and permanent, and the Golden Eagle still soars above. 

How heavy are you?

One of the most neglected / least discussed issues is that of your motorhome's payload. 

Auto Trail Tracker FB's leave the factory with mass in service weight of 3210 kg (the weight after conversion by Auto Trail, including an average weight driver) and an authorised payload of 3500 kg (the total permitted weight) The difference between the two is 290 kg -  to cover a passenger, any extras fitted, and luggage. 

The 3500 kg figure is a compromise - reached by converters to keep the authorised weight in the category of Private Light Goods (PLG), rather than Heavy Goods Vehicle (HGV). This enables those who passed their car test after 01/01/1997 to drive the vehicle on an ordinary car licence. 

For some motorhomers, 3500 kg is sufficient. But for others, not. It took me right to the edge when I weighed the vehicle at a weigh bridge.

Auto Trail provide a most useful payload calculator to assist. Thus, I found that my extras: media pack added 12 kg, solar panel 20 kg, Gaslow system 36 kg, and towbar 70 kg - totalled 138 kg - leaving 152 kg for my passenger Stephanie, motorhome kit, clothing, food and water. Fortunately, Stephanie - as a dancer - is very light and slim!

There are some items which are not really negotiable when it comes to motorhoming, for example, bedding, towels, cutlery, crockery, cooking equipment, food, spare clothing, levelling blocks, mud mats. Other items all add up the weight - some light such as a laptop; others heavier such as a barbecue. 

Concerns about being pulled up by police or revenue inspectors and sent to a weigh bridge are over-stated here in the UK. Most authorities are looking for overladen goods vehicles and not interested in the average motorhome. However, things are a little different in Europe, especially France, making the risk of being over-weight simply not worth taking. 

The Tracker FB (like a number of other models built on the same chassis) is however 'type approved' for the higher Maximum Authorised Weight of 3650 - adding a significant 150 kg, and almost doubling my spare payload. I quickly realised that seeking the upgrade was the way forward. But how to do this? The answer came, most helpfully from Simon Chainey at Tyne Valley Motorhomes, with contact names and addresses at Auto Trail.

So, I thought it would be useful to set out my free, definitive, simple six stage, tried and tested approach, which allowed me to increase my payload in the space of two weeks.

*****

Every Fiat base vehicle leaves the Fiat factory with a metal VIN plate mounted at the front of the engine compartment. This is a Fiat 1^st stage plate. It reveals the information about the base Fiat vehicle BEFORE conversion. It is of interest, for it will tell you about the maximum permitted weights for this type of chassis, a combined vehicle and towing weight, and separate figures for each axle. This metal plate will remain unchanged on the vehicle.

The Tracker FB is built on a Fiat Ducato X250 35 'Light' chassis’ - originally homologated by Fiat with a Maximum Authorised Weight of 3650 kg (as shown on the Fiat VIN plate under the bonnet).

At conversion – Auto Trail as multi stage body builder, have ‘Type Approved’ the Tracker FB to both 3500kg and 3650kg. This permits Auto Trail to give their customers a choice - as drivers who passed their car test after 1997 are restricted to 3500 kg. Auto Trail then simply attach their secondary weight label to every vehicle that leaves their factory showing the specified gross weight – usually 3500 kg by default.

Because the model is type approved to either gross weight, it is a simple task to change – either up to 3650 kg or down to 3500 kg – without making any technical alteration to the motorhome.

Do note that, whilst the vehicle remains ‘Class 4 for MOT purposes, the difference in Maximum Authorised Weight changes the vehicle category from Private Light Goods (PLG) to Private Heavy Goods (PHG) with some minor speed restrictions, or French toll charges (if they check). Revenue tax rates change slightly, but importantly, if you have passed your test after 01/01/1997 you will need to upgrade your licence. For those reaching 70 years of age, you have to provide a completed medical report indicating your fitness to drive an HGV https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/369458/D4_160414.pdf

Note that some breakdown recovery policies only cover vehicles up to 3500 kg, so you may need to review this. 

Six stage process

.For convenience, this specimen is for an upgrade from 3500 kg to 3650 kg:

1. Go to ‘contact us’ on the Auto Trail web site http://www.auto-trail.co.uk/contact-us and send a message to the Technical and Quality Manager, as follows:

“I am (your full name name) the registered keeper of the Auto Trail (model) specified below, currently with a Maximum Authorised Weight of 3500 kg. I seek a letter of confirmation, re-issued Certificate of Conformity and new secondary weight label so that I can re-register the vehicle at 3650 kg.

Vehicle:                       Auto Trail motorhome

Model:                         Tracker FB

Base vehicle:              Fiat Ducato

Chassis no:                 xxxxxxxxxxxx

Reg. no:                      xx xx xxx

1^st reg:                         (date)

Specification:              factory standard

2. Auto Trail will send you a letter, together with the other documents requested. Photocopy the new secondary weight label to send to DVLA, then affix the label over Auto Trail’s original label on your motorhome.
3. Download, print and complete DVLA form V70 (if already taxed) or V85 (if not currently taxed) using these links V70https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/364271/V70_180914.pdf V85 https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/360106/V85_140714.pdf.
4. Complete box 7 of your vehicle’s UK Registration Certificate (log book) specifying the new authorised revenue weight and change from Private Light Goods (PLG) to Private HGV or vice versa, sign and date.
5. Keep photocopies, and send to  To DVLA, Swansea, SA99 1BA

·         Form V70 or V85 (completed)

·         UK Registration Certificate (log book) completing box 7 & 8

·         Letter of Confirmation

·         Certificate of Conformity

·         Photocopy of secondary weight label

6. Within a few days they will send you a new UK Registration Certificate (log book). Your Certificate of Conformity will be returned to you under separate cover.

Ensure that your UK Registration Certificate shows the new revenue weight at box (Y) and that you store with it the original Certificate of Conformity and Auto Trail letter of Confirmation to support the changes.

Inform your insurers if your vehicle weight is recorded on your insurance documentation, and ensure that your breakdown recovery scheme will recover your vehicle at the higher weight. 

Cosmic June

With a shortened and divided week - Argentine Tango at Voodoo Café falling on Thursday - Stephanie and I decided on a two centre trip.

The first half demands a return to Whitley Bay - for no other reasons than the spectacular view across the North Sea from Old Hartley, and the myriad of walks along the cliffs.

The van is packed. Aware as we are of the payload margin on the Tracker (290kg) from which we deduct our fixed extras (125kg), we take just what we need. The fresh water tank has a capacity of 100 litres. Each litre of water weighs 1kg, so carrying water from home to site is not advisable.

Our route this windy Tuesday takes us across the Tyne Bridge, Newcastle. Traffic issues on the A1 Gateshead are still prominent, and the approach to the bridge is slow, despite our weekday choice. A clear advantage would have been gained from the Tyne Tunnel crossing, even better with a pre-paid permit. From the bridge the 1058 takes us out towards Tynemouth, with a turn north up the A19 to the 190 east-bound route to Seaton Sluice.

The sluice dates back to the mid 17th century, developed by Sir Ralph Delaval to flush silt from Seaton Burn harbour. A century later, Sir John Humphry Delaval used explosives to make a new passage, a 900' long, 54' deep channel for shipping - now providing impressive industrial archaeology for the visitor.

The camp site, as readers will already know from my earlier blog, lies just to the south at the village of Hartley, famed for its historic salt flats. Now all that remains of industry are the odd tanker lying at anchor whilst awaiting the tides for Newcastle Upon Tyne, and a trade boat that runs daily to Blythe.




Here we pitch for two nights, nestling against the perimeter fence that separates the site from seaside grassland over which the skylarks soar and sing. Our main view is, of course, to St Mary's lighthouse, prominent in the bay.







For those who are unfamiliar with the Northumberland coastline, this has to be one of the most spectacular continuous stretches of cliffs and beaches in England. Little wonder that the county was so prized. The variety of flora and bird life is impressive, but more so are the long reaches of perfect sand which disappear into the distance as far as the eye can see. Inland, soft lowland countryside with wild honeysuckle, campion, orchid and late flowering cowslips.

For the latter part of the week, as total contrast we select Leyburn in North Yorkshire. 

Access is simple from the A1 southbound, leaving at J15 Leeming Bar on the A684 via Bedale. What the traffic managers thought they were doing in Bedale defies description, but again, this involves just time rather than crisis, and the remaining journey through to Harmby is effortless. To our left is the delightful Harmby waterfall.  

Our site lies just before the Pheasant Inn, cleverly concealed to the right up a narrow high sided track. How fortunate that nothing came in the opposite direction.

This is an area of quarries. The site is in fact situated in one. Now managed by the Caravan Club, Lower Wensleydale offers a series of mini-sites running between sections of the quarry. We bag a pitch on 'the balcony', under the trees overlooking one of the main areas. The view from our windows is softened by luxuriant foliage. That in which we stay is nothing compared to the adjacent one - dramatically deep, plunging from four vertical sides to the waterline. 

The town of Leyburn lies just a mile and a bit away from the site, accessed along the A684 through rolling North Yorkshire countryside. Just outside the town is Tennants Auctioneers in their new £8m development - 'Kensington Palace meets the Tate'. 

One of the largest (if not the largest) auction house in Britain, Tennants is still run as a family concern under Rodney Tennant's leadership. Whilst there, we were treated to the John Lennon/Miles Davies exhibition of sketches and watercolours. 

Leyburn itself is a seriously impressive market town, stuffed with independent shops, such as 5th generation Milners Department store run by Leoni and Keith. The period town provides the perfect setting for the 1940's revival weekend, held each year in the third week of July.

Returning to the site, the wind, already brisk, develops in epic proportions. Some visitors have set off early, anticipating long and arduous journeys ahead. On the balcony against rising ground, we sit below the rage, hoping that no stray branches fall. It is to gentle rocking that we later sleep, awakening to soft sunshine and stillness. 

Leaving, we take the A6108, skirting Bellerby and following the river Sandbeck to Richmond, the Auto Trail Tracker running sweetly. From thence to the A1 and on to Darlington, another Tracker trip successfully accomplished. 

Cosmic Northumberland

Packed, including Champagne.....and the sat nav is programmed for Northumberland.

This short trip starts today, Wednesday, and we shall return on Sunday - taking in River Breamish just north of Powburn on the A697; and then progressing on to Berwick-on-Tweed, right on the edge of the Northumbrian coast.

It seemed strange getting back into the Tracker, with memories still fresh of twenty years in the CI. Here in the Auto Trail, seats embrace as the automatic gear-change effortlessly lifts the speed. The van sits firmly on the road, and but for the high riding position, gives an almost 'car-like' ride. Henry (the given voice of the sat nav soon warns that I am 'exceeding the speed limit'.

For such a size of vehicle, it is remarkably quiet, both within and without. The 1.3l (150hp) engine is soft and leisurely, showing little strain, except on the steepest incline when the hill-climb setting comes into play. Most of the internal noise results from packing error, with an unseated hob tapping the glass cover, and a series of forks tuning themselves in a cutlery drawer. It is only now that I am getting to appreciate the build quality: thick insulation, dense flooring and tight joinery work speak of a quality that is often absent with other manufacturers. The hard suspension, ubiquitous with Fiat, Ford and Mercedes, is the one aspect that reminds that I am driving a van.

With delays in departure for packing and diesel, I run the A1 near Newcastle towards rush hour. I decide to top-up the Gaslow leisure gas bottle LPG system despite having 8 litres spread between two cylinders, so that I can tick another 'first' from my list.

Gaslow refillable bottle gas is a Princess of gas delivery (the Queen being the expensive steel refillable gas tanks attached to the vehicle chassis). It comprises a principal gas bottle, linked to a smaller 'spare', the whole system being remotely filled or topped up via an externally mounted filler, similar to those found on LPG powered cars. Gas is then delivered via the regulator on demand to the heating, refrigeration and cooking appliances when not programmed to operate on 130v mains electric.

My selected gas dealer having closed early - too soon for my visit, I selected the next nearest LPG service station, offering a 59p/litre charge. Filling is relatively simple once the rules are understood, but the filling process is slow, so be warned. The system accommodates a further 6.3 litres, which takes the tanks up to their 80% safety capacity before automatically shutting off the flow. I pay £3.72, and have the knowledge that, irrespective of gas use, I will have more than enough for this trip and many to come.

Leaving the A1 north of Morpeth, the A697 runs straight towards Coldstream south of the Scottish border. Powburn lies just to the north of Rothbury in glorious Northumbrian countryside. Here hills roll towards fells, with small fringes of Scotts Pine ranged along the ridges. We see the last cattle outside Pauperhaugh and enter sheep country. It is May and the lambs are still small here, the season being a good three weeks behind the lower lands. We turn off towards Branton and after half a mile reach River Breamish site.

This is part of the Caravan Club network, a 10 acre site at the foot of the Cheviots, offering 75 pitches most of which are hardstanding. Along both side and rear are fascinating nature reserves set amidst old quarry lakes with well-constructed hides, and beyond runs the river, brown with peat. This is a twitcher's paradise if birds are your thing. If not, the drama of nature is still a compelling reason to visit, with extensive walks into unspoilt countryside.

Our chosen pitch backs against a tree-lined bank and faces into the main site. This has to be one of the most carefully cared Caravan Club sites in the region, but perhaps needs a further five years for the openness to fold and mature.

Our departure is again north west on the A697 to Wooler, and then the picturesque B6525 due north towards Berwick-on-Tweed. Berwick Seaview deserves its name - a 6 acre Caravan Club site situated in terraces high above Tweedmouth with views across to the ancient border town of Berwick and the North Sea. A popular site, just off the A1 London to Edinburgh road, booking is essential. Our allocated pitch 23 was towards the end of the site with restricted sea view, so you may wish to specify one of the more favoured of the 93 pitches when you book.

A visit to Berwick is not for the site - but for the town, a historic fortified holding to keep the Scots from invading England. Still walled, with massive granite blocks, the town combines the best of British history with a still-working port. It offers an immense variety of town walks and coastal strolls. It also offers Keith's Pier Red, arguably one of the best coffee-and-art shops in Europe. Having recently returned from Buenos Aires, we are skilled in tracking good coffee, and here is a place that rivals the best of those we have visited. And with your coffee, try the coffee and walnut cake, made locally and lovingly to delight.

Now, I hear you ask, why bring Champagne to Berwick-on-Tweed?

There is one simple and compelling reason, and it lies at the foot of Tweedmouth on Dock Road, just below the site. Descend there to meet with brothers Douglas and Graham Flannigan who operate the Berwick Shellfish Company. This is a family concern, founded by parents George and Phyllis Flannigan in 1969. The factory seafood shop opened in 2014 and is now part of the business success story. We choose prepared lobster and a separate seafood platter with king prawns and crab meat. The more adventurous may wish to cook their own lobster, or taste an exotic chilli and lime salmon.

The cork pops, our glasses are charged, and we set about succulent, soft lobster and crab. The last rays of sunshine break through hurrying clouds and we settle back to enjoy our latest meal in the Tracker.

Why travel further, when here is such delight?

First Moment

Stephanie and I are driving to Tyne Valley Motorhomes, Byermoor, Burnopfield and our new destiny. It's called the Auto Trail Tracker FB.

Back in 1993 I bought my first motorhome; or should I say 'campervan' -a second hand Autosleeper Rhapsody - a high roof panel van on the old shape Peugeot Boxer chassis.

Giving good service for a couple of years, in 1995 I exchanged it for a new CI Mizar Elite 140 - one of the first crash-tested, mass produced coachbuilts to come out of Italy.

2014 at Garlieston, Dumfies, Scotland

2014 Stephanie at Twinwood, Bedfordshire

And now, twenty years on, with excellent service from the CI, both in the UK and abroad, it is time for a change.


The Auto Trail Tracker FB is a larger van, taking the length from 5.97 to 7.10 metres, the width from 2.21 to 2.35m, the height from 2.97 to 3.03m. The reason, as leaked in it's name, is the FB or fixed bed, a queen size French bed backing to the rear near-side of the vehicle and positioned alongside the spacious bathroom. Forward from this is the kitchen and wardrobe, with twin sofas forming the front end seating beneath the Super Lo-line cab. All is set on the 2.3 Fiat Ducato Euro 5 base vehicle, in this case with Multijet 130 engine upgrade to 150 bhp, coupled to the Comfort- Matic automatic gearbox.

Auto Trail is a Lincolnshire based firm which has been making motorhomes for over 30 years, now part of the Trigano group operating from Europarc, Grimsby. Typically for the UK market, this is strictly a two seater motorhome - although with sofa conversion, it may sleep four.

The particular specification for this 2014 vehicle was determined by another customer who had been unable to take delivery of the vehicle. Extras include the media pack 2 with integrated 18.5" Avtex drop down wide screen TV/DVD player incorporating digital and satellite tuners; 100w solar panel, water tank frost protection, Witter detachable tow bar and reversing camera. Not registered until 2015, this provided a 'new' vehicle with the expected discount.

So much for the specification. Now, all we have to do is to take delivery. And of course, that will be the next blog.