Twinwood Trail

Friday 15 December 1944, at 40 years of age, Glenn Miller left RAF Twinwood  to fly with two others to Paris. Their single engined plane disappeared over the English Channel, leaving behind a huge chasm in the big band world.

Miller's music remained; and seventy three years after his death, the Glenn Miller Orchestra under Ray McVay returned to Twinwood. So did we.

This blog is about our third visit to the Twinwood Festival at Clapham near Bedford. It is about music, dancing, vintage, camping and friendship; and gives a little glimpse into two decades of Twentieth Century.

It is just before noon on Thursday 24 August. Stephanie and I are passing through Milton Ernest on the A6 Bedford Road  in our Auto Trail Tracker. As we approach Church Green a dark green Hillman Fourteen pulls out sharply in front of us from the entrance to Milton Ernest Hall. The hurrying driver is Lt Col Norman F Baessell, the off side passenger pilot F/O John Morgan. We catch a momentary view of a man in the rear near side seat. He appears tall and slim with rimless spectacles. His black hair is brushed back with Brylcreem, revealing a high and distinguished forehead. We catch the sound of voices, and discern an American accent.

Within a mile, the Hillman turns into Milton Road and a mile later into Twinwood Road taking the entry to Twinwood airfield. Whilst we wait in a row of stationary motorhomes and caravans, it speeds unhindered towards the control tower, skidding to a halt on the cinders by a stubby UC-64 Norseman. By the time we enter the airfield, the plane is leaving the runway climbing into a mackerel sky. I squint into the southern sun, but all I see is a greying dot. From behind the control tower comes the sound of Moonlight Serenade. He has left; but his legacy remains.

This, our third Twinwood visit, is marked by supreme organisation. The Twinwoodians, headed by Zoe and John Wolicki, Ann and Peter Barrett, Stephanie Rose and me have reserved five adjacent camping pitches on Campsite B, just a short stroll from the access track to the arena. Having overnighted at Grafham Water, we are the first to arrive. We take an end pitch as gatehouse and set up camp. Within the hour other Twinwoodians arrive, and by nightfall we sport a full-size living room (courtesy of Peter Lewis) and a flamingo decorated bedroom (courtesy of John Wolicki). Before long Stephanie and I are dancing.

There are some things you really need to know about thriving at Twinwood before you come.

The first is how to dress. Most first-timers cautiously take an understated line, hoping to blend into the background. At Twinwood there is no background, other than seventy years of fashion history. You can survive without food or alcohol - but not without your best vintage wardrobe. Twinwood is about dressing to impress. Nothing is 'over the top' - there is no top. There is a bottom occupied by the few dowdy day trippers who have self consciously not made the effort. Here are the best-pressed uniforms, the handmade shoes, 1940's buttoned dresses, 1950's circle skirts filled with petticoats, tweed suits with fob watches, trilby hats and spats. You simply have to dress to enter the era - whichever one you have chosen to access.

Second - get talking. Twinwood is about bands, music and dance. But it is also about a cultural history - a time when people greeted each other, knew their neighbours, complimented and engaged. Anonymity has no place at Twinwood. It is possible to be shy and reserved, but the greatest joy comes from meeting other enthusiasts, some of whom have created whole new personas for you to explore. So ditch the reserve, make eye contact, conversation and find out their story.

Third - the performances. With acts like 'The Manfreds' it is tempting to play it safe, park your folding chairs in the arena, and take up residence there for the weekend. Our advice is 'forget the big names, and hunt out new talent'. With thirteen venues - Arena, Control Tower, Colonial Club, Le Monde Electrique, Moonshine Glade, Liberty Stage, Nags Head, Casablanca Club, Cafe de Bois de Jumeau, Dance Marquee, Hangar Bar, Tin Hat & Carnaby Club and Soulshack - it is quite possible to find enough gems for an eternity ring. For 2017 there were 55 acts over 4 days. As will be evident from the Twinwoodians Facebook page, the headline acts were less of interest than the peripheral performers who produced acts to delight.

 Fourth - dance. Many visitors to Twinwood don't dance either by choice, necessity or inability. It is not a problem for there are dozens of foot-tapping events that will keep you entertained for hours on end, or simply watch Twinwoodians Neil and Carla Warren, the award winning ballroom experts. But with such great bands and fabulous music spanning the 40's to the 70's, being able to get onto the dance floor makes a huge difference to how you will feel about the weekend. Each day there are dance classes at all levels covering Swing, Lindy, Charleston, Balboa and Rock & Roll in the Colonial Club, Marquee, and Tin Hat. Get along to find a partner or learn a few solo steps. Better, take a few modern jive lessons before you come, so you can hit the floor dancing.

Twinwood 2017 was a massive hit, blessed with glorious sunshine. Eight raindrops fell on Saturday before we woke, and thereafter all that remained was for the stewards to complain about a sea of parasols in the arena. Will Twinwood 2018 be so kind? We hope so, and trust that you too will enjoy this headline event with great bands and new friends.

Cosmic June

With a shortened and divided week - Argentine Tango at Voodoo Café falling on Thursday - Stephanie and I decided on a two centre trip.

The first half demands a return to Whitley Bay - for no other reasons than the spectacular view across the North Sea from Old Hartley, and the myriad of walks along the cliffs.

The van is packed. Aware as we are of the payload margin on the Tracker (290kg) from which we deduct our fixed extras (125kg), we take just what we need. The fresh water tank has a capacity of 100 litres. Each litre of water weighs 1kg, so carrying water from home to site is not advisable.

Our route this windy Tuesday takes us across the Tyne Bridge, Newcastle. Traffic issues on the A1 Gateshead are still prominent, and the approach to the bridge is slow, despite our weekday choice. A clear advantage would have been gained from the Tyne Tunnel crossing, even better with a pre-paid permit. From the bridge the 1058 takes us out towards Tynemouth, with a turn north up the A19 to the 190 east-bound route to Seaton Sluice.

The sluice dates back to the mid 17th century, developed by Sir Ralph Delaval to flush silt from Seaton Burn harbour. A century later, Sir John Humphry Delaval used explosives to make a new passage, a 900' long, 54' deep channel for shipping - now providing impressive industrial archaeology for the visitor.

The camp site, as readers will already know from my earlier blog, lies just to the south at the village of Hartley, famed for its historic salt flats. Now all that remains of industry are the odd tanker lying at anchor whilst awaiting the tides for Newcastle Upon Tyne, and a trade boat that runs daily to Blythe.




Here we pitch for two nights, nestling against the perimeter fence that separates the site from seaside grassland over which the skylarks soar and sing. Our main view is, of course, to St Mary's lighthouse, prominent in the bay.







For those who are unfamiliar with the Northumberland coastline, this has to be one of the most spectacular continuous stretches of cliffs and beaches in England. Little wonder that the county was so prized. The variety of flora and bird life is impressive, but more so are the long reaches of perfect sand which disappear into the distance as far as the eye can see. Inland, soft lowland countryside with wild honeysuckle, campion, orchid and late flowering cowslips.

For the latter part of the week, as total contrast we select Leyburn in North Yorkshire. 

Access is simple from the A1 southbound, leaving at J15 Leeming Bar on the A684 via Bedale. What the traffic managers thought they were doing in Bedale defies description, but again, this involves just time rather than crisis, and the remaining journey through to Harmby is effortless. To our left is the delightful Harmby waterfall.  

Our site lies just before the Pheasant Inn, cleverly concealed to the right up a narrow high sided track. How fortunate that nothing came in the opposite direction.

This is an area of quarries. The site is in fact situated in one. Now managed by the Caravan Club, Lower Wensleydale offers a series of mini-sites running between sections of the quarry. We bag a pitch on 'the balcony', under the trees overlooking one of the main areas. The view from our windows is softened by luxuriant foliage. That in which we stay is nothing compared to the adjacent one - dramatically deep, plunging from four vertical sides to the waterline. 

The town of Leyburn lies just a mile and a bit away from the site, accessed along the A684 through rolling North Yorkshire countryside. Just outside the town is Tennants Auctioneers in their new £8m development - 'Kensington Palace meets the Tate'. 

One of the largest (if not the largest) auction house in Britain, Tennants is still run as a family concern under Rodney Tennant's leadership. Whilst there, we were treated to the John Lennon/Miles Davies exhibition of sketches and watercolours. 

Leyburn itself is a seriously impressive market town, stuffed with independent shops, such as 5th generation Milners Department store run by Leoni and Keith. The period town provides the perfect setting for the 1940's revival weekend, held each year in the third week of July.

Returning to the site, the wind, already brisk, develops in epic proportions. Some visitors have set off early, anticipating long and arduous journeys ahead. On the balcony against rising ground, we sit below the rage, hoping that no stray branches fall. It is to gentle rocking that we later sleep, awakening to soft sunshine and stillness. 

Leaving, we take the A6108, skirting Bellerby and following the river Sandbeck to Richmond, the Auto Trail Tracker running sweetly. From thence to the A1 and on to Darlington, another Tracker trip successfully accomplished. 

Cosmic Northumberland

Packed, including Champagne.....and the sat nav is programmed for Northumberland.

This short trip starts today, Wednesday, and we shall return on Sunday - taking in River Breamish just north of Powburn on the A697; and then progressing on to Berwick-on-Tweed, right on the edge of the Northumbrian coast.

It seemed strange getting back into the Tracker, with memories still fresh of twenty years in the CI. Here in the Auto Trail, seats embrace as the automatic gear-change effortlessly lifts the speed. The van sits firmly on the road, and but for the high riding position, gives an almost 'car-like' ride. Henry (the given voice of the sat nav soon warns that I am 'exceeding the speed limit'.

For such a size of vehicle, it is remarkably quiet, both within and without. The 1.3l (150hp) engine is soft and leisurely, showing little strain, except on the steepest incline when the hill-climb setting comes into play. Most of the internal noise results from packing error, with an unseated hob tapping the glass cover, and a series of forks tuning themselves in a cutlery drawer. It is only now that I am getting to appreciate the build quality: thick insulation, dense flooring and tight joinery work speak of a quality that is often absent with other manufacturers. The hard suspension, ubiquitous with Fiat, Ford and Mercedes, is the one aspect that reminds that I am driving a van.

With delays in departure for packing and diesel, I run the A1 near Newcastle towards rush hour. I decide to top-up the Gaslow leisure gas bottle LPG system despite having 8 litres spread between two cylinders, so that I can tick another 'first' from my list.

Gaslow refillable bottle gas is a Princess of gas delivery (the Queen being the expensive steel refillable gas tanks attached to the vehicle chassis). It comprises a principal gas bottle, linked to a smaller 'spare', the whole system being remotely filled or topped up via an externally mounted filler, similar to those found on LPG powered cars. Gas is then delivered via the regulator on demand to the heating, refrigeration and cooking appliances when not programmed to operate on 130v mains electric.

My selected gas dealer having closed early - too soon for my visit, I selected the next nearest LPG service station, offering a 59p/litre charge. Filling is relatively simple once the rules are understood, but the filling process is slow, so be warned. The system accommodates a further 6.3 litres, which takes the tanks up to their 80% safety capacity before automatically shutting off the flow. I pay £3.72, and have the knowledge that, irrespective of gas use, I will have more than enough for this trip and many to come.

Leaving the A1 north of Morpeth, the A697 runs straight towards Coldstream south of the Scottish border. Powburn lies just to the north of Rothbury in glorious Northumbrian countryside. Here hills roll towards fells, with small fringes of Scotts Pine ranged along the ridges. We see the last cattle outside Pauperhaugh and enter sheep country. It is May and the lambs are still small here, the season being a good three weeks behind the lower lands. We turn off towards Branton and after half a mile reach River Breamish site.

This is part of the Caravan Club network, a 10 acre site at the foot of the Cheviots, offering 75 pitches most of which are hardstanding. Along both side and rear are fascinating nature reserves set amidst old quarry lakes with well-constructed hides, and beyond runs the river, brown with peat. This is a twitcher's paradise if birds are your thing. If not, the drama of nature is still a compelling reason to visit, with extensive walks into unspoilt countryside.

Our chosen pitch backs against a tree-lined bank and faces into the main site. This has to be one of the most carefully cared Caravan Club sites in the region, but perhaps needs a further five years for the openness to fold and mature.

Our departure is again north west on the A697 to Wooler, and then the picturesque B6525 due north towards Berwick-on-Tweed. Berwick Seaview deserves its name - a 6 acre Caravan Club site situated in terraces high above Tweedmouth with views across to the ancient border town of Berwick and the North Sea. A popular site, just off the A1 London to Edinburgh road, booking is essential. Our allocated pitch 23 was towards the end of the site with restricted sea view, so you may wish to specify one of the more favoured of the 93 pitches when you book.

A visit to Berwick is not for the site - but for the town, a historic fortified holding to keep the Scots from invading England. Still walled, with massive granite blocks, the town combines the best of British history with a still-working port. It offers an immense variety of town walks and coastal strolls. It also offers Keith's Pier Red, arguably one of the best coffee-and-art shops in Europe. Having recently returned from Buenos Aires, we are skilled in tracking good coffee, and here is a place that rivals the best of those we have visited. And with your coffee, try the coffee and walnut cake, made locally and lovingly to delight.

Now, I hear you ask, why bring Champagne to Berwick-on-Tweed?

There is one simple and compelling reason, and it lies at the foot of Tweedmouth on Dock Road, just below the site. Descend there to meet with brothers Douglas and Graham Flannigan who operate the Berwick Shellfish Company. This is a family concern, founded by parents George and Phyllis Flannigan in 1969. The factory seafood shop opened in 2014 and is now part of the business success story. We choose prepared lobster and a separate seafood platter with king prawns and crab meat. The more adventurous may wish to cook their own lobster, or taste an exotic chilli and lime salmon.

The cork pops, our glasses are charged, and we set about succulent, soft lobster and crab. The last rays of sunshine break through hurrying clouds and we settle back to enjoy our latest meal in the Tracker.

Why travel further, when here is such delight?

First Moment

Stephanie and I are driving to Tyne Valley Motorhomes, Byermoor, Burnopfield and our new destiny. It's called the Auto Trail Tracker FB.

Back in 1993 I bought my first motorhome; or should I say 'campervan' -a second hand Autosleeper Rhapsody - a high roof panel van on the old shape Peugeot Boxer chassis.

Giving good service for a couple of years, in 1995 I exchanged it for a new CI Mizar Elite 140 - one of the first crash-tested, mass produced coachbuilts to come out of Italy.

2014 at Garlieston, Dumfies, Scotland

2014 Stephanie at Twinwood, Bedfordshire

And now, twenty years on, with excellent service from the CI, both in the UK and abroad, it is time for a change.


The Auto Trail Tracker FB is a larger van, taking the length from 5.97 to 7.10 metres, the width from 2.21 to 2.35m, the height from 2.97 to 3.03m. The reason, as leaked in it's name, is the FB or fixed bed, a queen size French bed backing to the rear near-side of the vehicle and positioned alongside the spacious bathroom. Forward from this is the kitchen and wardrobe, with twin sofas forming the front end seating beneath the Super Lo-line cab. All is set on the 2.3 Fiat Ducato Euro 5 base vehicle, in this case with Multijet 130 engine upgrade to 150 bhp, coupled to the Comfort- Matic automatic gearbox.

Auto Trail is a Lincolnshire based firm which has been making motorhomes for over 30 years, now part of the Trigano group operating from Europarc, Grimsby. Typically for the UK market, this is strictly a two seater motorhome - although with sofa conversion, it may sleep four.

The particular specification for this 2014 vehicle was determined by another customer who had been unable to take delivery of the vehicle. Extras include the media pack 2 with integrated 18.5" Avtex drop down wide screen TV/DVD player incorporating digital and satellite tuners; 100w solar panel, water tank frost protection, Witter detachable tow bar and reversing camera. Not registered until 2015, this provided a 'new' vehicle with the expected discount.

So much for the specification. Now, all we have to do is to take delivery. And of course, that will be the next blog.