Festival Campervanning

Taking time to tour is tempting, but flitting the festivals - altogether another delight. This year, Stephanie and I have been festivaling in the motorhome, and this is what we found.

Readers will know that with the departure of the CI Mizar after 20 years, and the arrival of the Autotrail Tracker, our touring has increased exponentially. Gone - the overhead bunk, tight dinettes, and marine toilet, now - a fixed bed, superb lounging and cassette loo. Modern motorhomes are indeed 'home-from-home', proving all of those little extras that make a trip easy and fun.

Britain's choice of festivals is vast. Music, theatre, crafts, sports, racing, nature, retro, cookery, food are just a few. A quick web search opens up a host of activities and interests - each one offering its own community of followers, and potentially, new friends with similar interests.

Stephanie and I are tango dancers - more particularly (because there is a vast difference), Argentine tangueros. Our obsession with tango takes us around the world to dance and conquer the continents, especially South America. But here in the UK we still have opportunities to dance at national and international festivals arranged throughout the year.

So, what of 2016 so far?

We started in May with the annual Edinburgh International Tango Festival, and for it we chose to stay on the Caravan Club site at Marine Drive by the Forth estuary waterfront. Although a 10 minute walk to public transport, the site is restfully located to the north of the city with easy access by bus, and late night return by taxi. Driving in Edinburgh is not for the feint hearted, and caravanners may choose to leave their cars for once, after all, this is a trip and you are on holiday.

The benefit of the motorhome soon became apparent when it came to managing a festival. Suitcases are one thing, but a motorhome is quite another dimension. Whatever the activity, a quantity of kit is required and subject to weight limits, a camper is the answer. Here you have room for all the clothes, food for the trip, the surf board, the golf clubs and the barbecue.

Our next trip was a tango festival in Cheltenham at the end of June. This was our second visit, so we had no doubt that Cheltenham Racecourse was the place to stay, right on the edge of the park and ride, but set in an astonishing setting surrounded by gorgeous views into Gloucestershire.

Cheltenham is a centre for numerous festivals, including the Literature Festival, Jazz Festival, Science Festival, Music Festival, Food and Drink Festival and, of course, the famous Gold Cup held on site. The town is within walking distance, so there is absolutely no need to drive. If you do visit, remember to take your leveling blocks.

We now await Twinwood, arguably Britain's top retro music and dance festival. The event is held annually at the old aerodrome in Clapham Bedfordshire, famed for being the RAF airfield from which in December 1944 Glenn Miller made his last flight before his plane simply disappeared from the world. These days at Twinwood nobody disappears. Quite the contrary, larger than life, hundreds of visitors dress for the occasion to celebrate the 1940/50's in style, to listen to the bands and to dance.

Perhaps now is the time for you to consider life outside the camp site, and the possibility of new interests, activities and experiences? For us it has been a joy. What is stopping you?

2016 - New Season starts in snowy Wharfedale

The Auto Trail Tracker FB has opened the opportunity to travel out-of-season. Whilst I used my previous motorhome - a 1994 CI Mizar - during the winter, trips were short, sharp and challenging. Now with the luxury of the Tracker, things are very different.

With this blog entry, I will be addressing winter travelling, with tips and remedies.

Those who have read previous entries here will be familiar with the Auto Trail Tracker FB - a motorhome 'for two-to-travel', with fixed double bed (hence the FB tag). The Caravan Club Wharfedale site provided mains electric hook-up to each pitch. Without this, I sense that winter motorhoming for any significant stay would be too demanding.

Regular readers will also know that as an extra, I had a Gaslow refillable autogas system fitted to the vehicle. Refillable gas delivery comprises a principal gas bottle, linked to a smaller 'spare', the whole system being remotely filled or topped up at an autogas service station via an externally mounted filler, similar to those found on LPG powered cars. Gas is then delivered via the regulator on demand to the heating, refrigeration and cooking appliances (when not programmed to operate on mains electric).

For winter motorhoming, a refillable gas system is imperative, avoiding the calamity of bottles running dangerously low - to be replaced by expensive cylinders from sites and far-flung suppliers. Cheaper gas means that the heating can be set affordably to electric/gas mix for the initial temperature boost. Simply programme the setting at the control board, set the thermostat in the mid 20's and the heating fan on the high setting. As the temperature rises, seize the moment to revert to mains electric and a more modest temperature setting.

The header photograph to this entry reveals a second 'must-have' for the winter motorhomer. Reflective screens provide insulation in both summer and winter; but at this time of year they are essential not just for temperature but for condensation.

After examining the options and trawling the motorhome owner sites, I settled on Taylormade as a supplier. Significantly, the company is operated by motorhome owners that know what is needed, and have incorporated their know-how into the finished product. Robust and well made, the screen cover has the added advantage of length, covering the engine compartment air vents. It also comes with a fold down centre panel, opening with simple Velcro fastening at each side. 

With the cover fitted, for the first time in out-of-season motorhoming, we suffered no condensation, and the cab which is incorporated into the sitting area in the FB, became useable. Whilst on site we kept the screen cover in place, but rolled down the centre panel for daylight, closing at dusk.

When ordering the screen cover, I decided to invest in a Talormade bonnet cover for a modest additional charge. Whilst this proved to be slightly more fiddly to fit (mainly due to an absence of application to the fitting instructions on my part), it certainly made a difference to the ingress of cold air which is a feature of the Fiat cab. Unlike the screens, the  bonnet cover is not insulated, so takes little packing space making it a simple but effective extra.

Whilst dealing with the question of temperature control whilst pitched, don't forget to close the blown air points inside the cab. Without a running engine, these simply admit cold air and drafts.

Finally, the issue of sleeping. When Stephanie returned last autumn with a Winceyette bottom sheet, high-tog duvet and a throw, I wondered when on earth these would be used. Well, the answer is - as soon as you commit to out-of-season travelling. Night time may be the most challenging time in a motorhome. Economy and ecology suggest that the heating should be turned to a lower setting, and indeed this is better for comfort. But the addition of great bedding is a luxury not to be ignored. 

With these simple, positive steps, winter motorhoming is not just possible, but pleasurable. It opens a further opportunity to get the best use out of your van and to experience a winter break with a difference!

How heavy are you?

One of the most neglected / least discussed issues is that of your motorhome's payload. 

Auto Trail Tracker FB's leave the factory with mass in service weight of 3210 kg (the weight after conversion by Auto Trail, including an average weight driver) and an authorised payload of 3500 kg (the total permitted weight) The difference between the two is 290 kg -  to cover a passenger, any extras fitted, and luggage. 

The 3500 kg figure is a compromise - reached by converters to keep the authorised weight in the category of Private Light Goods (PLG), rather than Heavy Goods Vehicle (HGV). This enables those who passed their car test after 01/01/1997 to drive the vehicle on an ordinary car licence. 

For some motorhomers, 3500 kg is sufficient. But for others, not. It took me right to the edge when I weighed the vehicle at a weigh bridge.

Auto Trail provide a most useful payload calculator to assist. Thus, I found that my extras: media pack added 12 kg, solar panel 20 kg, Gaslow system 36 kg, and towbar 70 kg - totalled 138 kg - leaving 152 kg for my passenger Stephanie, motorhome kit, clothing, food and water. Fortunately, Stephanie - as a dancer - is very light and slim!

There are some items which are not really negotiable when it comes to motorhoming, for example, bedding, towels, cutlery, crockery, cooking equipment, food, spare clothing, levelling blocks, mud mats. Other items all add up the weight - some light such as a laptop; others heavier such as a barbecue. 

Concerns about being pulled up by police or revenue inspectors and sent to a weigh bridge are over-stated here in the UK. Most authorities are looking for overladen goods vehicles and not interested in the average motorhome. However, things are a little different in Europe, especially France, making the risk of being over-weight simply not worth taking. 

The Tracker FB (like a number of other models built on the same chassis) is however 'type approved' for the higher Maximum Authorised Weight of 3650 - adding a significant 150 kg, and almost doubling my spare payload. I quickly realised that seeking the upgrade was the way forward. But how to do this? The answer came, most helpfully from Simon Chainey at Tyne Valley Motorhomes, with contact names and addresses at Auto Trail.

So, I thought it would be useful to set out my free, definitive, simple six stage, tried and tested approach, which allowed me to increase my payload in the space of two weeks.

*****

Every Fiat base vehicle leaves the Fiat factory with a metal VIN plate mounted at the front of the engine compartment. This is a Fiat 1^st stage plate. It reveals the information about the base Fiat vehicle BEFORE conversion. It is of interest, for it will tell you about the maximum permitted weights for this type of chassis, a combined vehicle and towing weight, and separate figures for each axle. This metal plate will remain unchanged on the vehicle.

The Tracker FB is built on a Fiat Ducato X250 35 'Light' chassis’ - originally homologated by Fiat with a Maximum Authorised Weight of 3650 kg (as shown on the Fiat VIN plate under the bonnet).

At conversion – Auto Trail as multi stage body builder, have ‘Type Approved’ the Tracker FB to both 3500kg and 3650kg. This permits Auto Trail to give their customers a choice - as drivers who passed their car test after 1997 are restricted to 3500 kg. Auto Trail then simply attach their secondary weight label to every vehicle that leaves their factory showing the specified gross weight – usually 3500 kg by default.

Because the model is type approved to either gross weight, it is a simple task to change – either up to 3650 kg or down to 3500 kg – without making any technical alteration to the motorhome.

Do note that, whilst the vehicle remains ‘Class 4 for MOT purposes, the difference in Maximum Authorised Weight changes the vehicle category from Private Light Goods (PLG) to Private Heavy Goods (PHG) with some minor speed restrictions, or French toll charges (if they check). Revenue tax rates change slightly, but importantly, if you have passed your test after 01/01/1997 you will need to upgrade your licence. For those reaching 70 years of age, you have to provide a completed medical report indicating your fitness to drive an HGV https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/369458/D4_160414.pdf

Note that some breakdown recovery policies only cover vehicles up to 3500 kg, so you may need to review this. 

Six stage process

.For convenience, this specimen is for an upgrade from 3500 kg to 3650 kg:

1. Go to ‘contact us’ on the Auto Trail web site http://www.auto-trail.co.uk/contact-us and send a message to the Technical and Quality Manager, as follows:

“I am (your full name name) the registered keeper of the Auto Trail (model) specified below, currently with a Maximum Authorised Weight of 3500 kg. I seek a letter of confirmation, re-issued Certificate of Conformity and new secondary weight label so that I can re-register the vehicle at 3650 kg.

Vehicle:                       Auto Trail motorhome

Model:                         Tracker FB

Base vehicle:              Fiat Ducato

Chassis no:                 xxxxxxxxxxxx

Reg. no:                      xx xx xxx

1^st reg:                         (date)

Specification:              factory standard

2. Auto Trail will send you a letter, together with the other documents requested. Photocopy the new secondary weight label to send to DVLA, then affix the label over Auto Trail’s original label on your motorhome.
3. Download, print and complete DVLA form V70 (if already taxed) or V85 (if not currently taxed) using these links V70https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/364271/V70_180914.pdf V85 https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/360106/V85_140714.pdf.
4. Complete box 7 of your vehicle’s UK Registration Certificate (log book) specifying the new authorised revenue weight and change from Private Light Goods (PLG) to Private HGV or vice versa, sign and date.
5. Keep photocopies, and send to  To DVLA, Swansea, SA99 1BA

·         Form V70 or V85 (completed)

·         UK Registration Certificate (log book) completing box 7 & 8

·         Letter of Confirmation

·         Certificate of Conformity

·         Photocopy of secondary weight label

6. Within a few days they will send you a new UK Registration Certificate (log book). Your Certificate of Conformity will be returned to you under separate cover.

Ensure that your UK Registration Certificate shows the new revenue weight at box (Y) and that you store with it the original Certificate of Conformity and Auto Trail letter of Confirmation to support the changes.

Inform your insurers if your vehicle weight is recorded on your insurance documentation, and ensure that your breakdown recovery scheme will recover your vehicle at the higher weight. 

Cosmic June

With a shortened and divided week - Argentine Tango at Voodoo Café falling on Thursday - Stephanie and I decided on a two centre trip.

The first half demands a return to Whitley Bay - for no other reasons than the spectacular view across the North Sea from Old Hartley, and the myriad of walks along the cliffs.

The van is packed. Aware as we are of the payload margin on the Tracker (290kg) from which we deduct our fixed extras (125kg), we take just what we need. The fresh water tank has a capacity of 100 litres. Each litre of water weighs 1kg, so carrying water from home to site is not advisable.

Our route this windy Tuesday takes us across the Tyne Bridge, Newcastle. Traffic issues on the A1 Gateshead are still prominent, and the approach to the bridge is slow, despite our weekday choice. A clear advantage would have been gained from the Tyne Tunnel crossing, even better with a pre-paid permit. From the bridge the 1058 takes us out towards Tynemouth, with a turn north up the A19 to the 190 east-bound route to Seaton Sluice.

The sluice dates back to the mid 17th century, developed by Sir Ralph Delaval to flush silt from Seaton Burn harbour. A century later, Sir John Humphry Delaval used explosives to make a new passage, a 900' long, 54' deep channel for shipping - now providing impressive industrial archaeology for the visitor.

The camp site, as readers will already know from my earlier blog, lies just to the south at the village of Hartley, famed for its historic salt flats. Now all that remains of industry are the odd tanker lying at anchor whilst awaiting the tides for Newcastle Upon Tyne, and a trade boat that runs daily to Blythe.




Here we pitch for two nights, nestling against the perimeter fence that separates the site from seaside grassland over which the skylarks soar and sing. Our main view is, of course, to St Mary's lighthouse, prominent in the bay.







For those who are unfamiliar with the Northumberland coastline, this has to be one of the most spectacular continuous stretches of cliffs and beaches in England. Little wonder that the county was so prized. The variety of flora and bird life is impressive, but more so are the long reaches of perfect sand which disappear into the distance as far as the eye can see. Inland, soft lowland countryside with wild honeysuckle, campion, orchid and late flowering cowslips.

For the latter part of the week, as total contrast we select Leyburn in North Yorkshire. 

Access is simple from the A1 southbound, leaving at J15 Leeming Bar on the A684 via Bedale. What the traffic managers thought they were doing in Bedale defies description, but again, this involves just time rather than crisis, and the remaining journey through to Harmby is effortless. To our left is the delightful Harmby waterfall.  

Our site lies just before the Pheasant Inn, cleverly concealed to the right up a narrow high sided track. How fortunate that nothing came in the opposite direction.

This is an area of quarries. The site is in fact situated in one. Now managed by the Caravan Club, Lower Wensleydale offers a series of mini-sites running between sections of the quarry. We bag a pitch on 'the balcony', under the trees overlooking one of the main areas. The view from our windows is softened by luxuriant foliage. That in which we stay is nothing compared to the adjacent one - dramatically deep, plunging from four vertical sides to the waterline. 

The town of Leyburn lies just a mile and a bit away from the site, accessed along the A684 through rolling North Yorkshire countryside. Just outside the town is Tennants Auctioneers in their new £8m development - 'Kensington Palace meets the Tate'. 

One of the largest (if not the largest) auction house in Britain, Tennants is still run as a family concern under Rodney Tennant's leadership. Whilst there, we were treated to the John Lennon/Miles Davies exhibition of sketches and watercolours. 

Leyburn itself is a seriously impressive market town, stuffed with independent shops, such as 5th generation Milners Department store run by Leoni and Keith. The period town provides the perfect setting for the 1940's revival weekend, held each year in the third week of July.

Returning to the site, the wind, already brisk, develops in epic proportions. Some visitors have set off early, anticipating long and arduous journeys ahead. On the balcony against rising ground, we sit below the rage, hoping that no stray branches fall. It is to gentle rocking that we later sleep, awakening to soft sunshine and stillness. 

Leaving, we take the A6108, skirting Bellerby and following the river Sandbeck to Richmond, the Auto Trail Tracker running sweetly. From thence to the A1 and on to Darlington, another Tracker trip successfully accomplished. 

Cosmic Northumberland

Packed, including Champagne.....and the sat nav is programmed for Northumberland.

This short trip starts today, Wednesday, and we shall return on Sunday - taking in River Breamish just north of Powburn on the A697; and then progressing on to Berwick-on-Tweed, right on the edge of the Northumbrian coast.

It seemed strange getting back into the Tracker, with memories still fresh of twenty years in the CI. Here in the Auto Trail, seats embrace as the automatic gear-change effortlessly lifts the speed. The van sits firmly on the road, and but for the high riding position, gives an almost 'car-like' ride. Henry (the given voice of the sat nav soon warns that I am 'exceeding the speed limit'.

For such a size of vehicle, it is remarkably quiet, both within and without. The 1.3l (150hp) engine is soft and leisurely, showing little strain, except on the steepest incline when the hill-climb setting comes into play. Most of the internal noise results from packing error, with an unseated hob tapping the glass cover, and a series of forks tuning themselves in a cutlery drawer. It is only now that I am getting to appreciate the build quality: thick insulation, dense flooring and tight joinery work speak of a quality that is often absent with other manufacturers. The hard suspension, ubiquitous with Fiat, Ford and Mercedes, is the one aspect that reminds that I am driving a van.

With delays in departure for packing and diesel, I run the A1 near Newcastle towards rush hour. I decide to top-up the Gaslow leisure gas bottle LPG system despite having 8 litres spread between two cylinders, so that I can tick another 'first' from my list.

Gaslow refillable bottle gas is a Princess of gas delivery (the Queen being the expensive steel refillable gas tanks attached to the vehicle chassis). It comprises a principal gas bottle, linked to a smaller 'spare', the whole system being remotely filled or topped up via an externally mounted filler, similar to those found on LPG powered cars. Gas is then delivered via the regulator on demand to the heating, refrigeration and cooking appliances when not programmed to operate on 130v mains electric.

My selected gas dealer having closed early - too soon for my visit, I selected the next nearest LPG service station, offering a 59p/litre charge. Filling is relatively simple once the rules are understood, but the filling process is slow, so be warned. The system accommodates a further 6.3 litres, which takes the tanks up to their 80% safety capacity before automatically shutting off the flow. I pay £3.72, and have the knowledge that, irrespective of gas use, I will have more than enough for this trip and many to come.

Leaving the A1 north of Morpeth, the A697 runs straight towards Coldstream south of the Scottish border. Powburn lies just to the north of Rothbury in glorious Northumbrian countryside. Here hills roll towards fells, with small fringes of Scotts Pine ranged along the ridges. We see the last cattle outside Pauperhaugh and enter sheep country. It is May and the lambs are still small here, the season being a good three weeks behind the lower lands. We turn off towards Branton and after half a mile reach River Breamish site.

This is part of the Caravan Club network, a 10 acre site at the foot of the Cheviots, offering 75 pitches most of which are hardstanding. Along both side and rear are fascinating nature reserves set amidst old quarry lakes with well-constructed hides, and beyond runs the river, brown with peat. This is a twitcher's paradise if birds are your thing. If not, the drama of nature is still a compelling reason to visit, with extensive walks into unspoilt countryside.

Our chosen pitch backs against a tree-lined bank and faces into the main site. This has to be one of the most carefully cared Caravan Club sites in the region, but perhaps needs a further five years for the openness to fold and mature.

Our departure is again north west on the A697 to Wooler, and then the picturesque B6525 due north towards Berwick-on-Tweed. Berwick Seaview deserves its name - a 6 acre Caravan Club site situated in terraces high above Tweedmouth with views across to the ancient border town of Berwick and the North Sea. A popular site, just off the A1 London to Edinburgh road, booking is essential. Our allocated pitch 23 was towards the end of the site with restricted sea view, so you may wish to specify one of the more favoured of the 93 pitches when you book.

A visit to Berwick is not for the site - but for the town, a historic fortified holding to keep the Scots from invading England. Still walled, with massive granite blocks, the town combines the best of British history with a still-working port. It offers an immense variety of town walks and coastal strolls. It also offers Keith's Pier Red, arguably one of the best coffee-and-art shops in Europe. Having recently returned from Buenos Aires, we are skilled in tracking good coffee, and here is a place that rivals the best of those we have visited. And with your coffee, try the coffee and walnut cake, made locally and lovingly to delight.

Now, I hear you ask, why bring Champagne to Berwick-on-Tweed?

There is one simple and compelling reason, and it lies at the foot of Tweedmouth on Dock Road, just below the site. Descend there to meet with brothers Douglas and Graham Flannigan who operate the Berwick Shellfish Company. This is a family concern, founded by parents George and Phyllis Flannigan in 1969. The factory seafood shop opened in 2014 and is now part of the business success story. We choose prepared lobster and a separate seafood platter with king prawns and crab meat. The more adventurous may wish to cook their own lobster, or taste an exotic chilli and lime salmon.

The cork pops, our glasses are charged, and we set about succulent, soft lobster and crab. The last rays of sunshine break through hurrying clouds and we settle back to enjoy our latest meal in the Tracker.

Why travel further, when here is such delight?

Time to get closer to the cosmos

When the wind whips from the west, carrying shoals of raindrops that lash against the polymer side of the van. When dusk drops and late flashes of sun light the North Sea-scape ahead. When the roof lights are sealed, blinds dropped and curtains drawn, and the boiler chugs soft warmth across the thick rug. A late leaf scurries across the roof. The aroma of roast lamb rises from the Thetford oven, and high altitude Malbec splashes into crystal glasses.

Now is one of those moments that affirm the motorhome; that speak to opportunity and freedom; that say 'we have stepped away from the knotty path of routine, work and confusion - into a peaceful cosmos'.

It is spring in England and outside there should be a warm breeze rather than a bitter blow. After nine weeks of dancing tango in Buenos Aires, where temperatures oscillated between 26 and 34 degrees, this experience is savage. And, of course, truly testing of the Tracker.

With twenty years in the CI Mizar, the feel of the Tracker is a totally new experience - grounded, solid and sophisticated. On the road, the van is firm and responsive, without the 'roll' of the earlier motorhomes. Here on site, systems respond to the touch of a button, heating slipping into life and hot water on demand.

We look out over the bay. Clouds race and only feint wave crests separate their grey, and the grey of the sea. Inside we have a feeling of peace, comfort and, save for the gentle hum of the heating fan, silence. A special moment, which if bottled, would carry the label of a truly fine wine.

First trip in the Tracker

With thanks to rolandsrambles for the photo

Why Whitley Bay, I hear you ask? Well, with one of the finest sea-views in England from a Caravan Club site, why not? It is also within 40 minutes drive of Tyne Valley Motorhomes.

Our later delivery of the new Autotrail Tracker motorhome means that we arrive at Old Hartley, situated just to the north of Whitley Bay, as a pink sun starts to sink to the west. The effect, of course, is to drench this pleasant, sloping site in evening light - and to light up the light house sitting out in the bright blue bay.

When the Caravan Club boast that here is the best view on the network, they have to be right. It is stunning, especially at this time of day. The assistant warden is waiting ready to log us in and allocate a pitch. We elect number 14, looking out to sea, standing on slightly higher ground.

The whole site slopes towards the cliffs, which given the headland shape, provides a panoramic view from Seaton Sluice down towards Tynemouth. St Mary's Island stands majestically in the centre. Formerly a coast guard station with working lighthouse beacon, it is now owned by the county and used as a social resource for school trips, education, and of course as a nature reserve. Here a plethora of seabirds dress the rocks, rock pools team with crabs, seals lift their noses on the rising tide, and Harbour porpoise flash in formation as they follow the fishing boats.

We roll forward onto levelling blocks, as the pitch drops away slightly to the front. Here Milenco Quattro come into their own, especially when used with the level indicator. This is a 'no awning' site, so the pitches are narrow, but serviceable. The slope of the site allows each pitch its own view out to sea.

The Omni-step slides out and we connect to 230v. With just over half the 100l fresh water tank filled, we are fit for the weekend. Such gas as is needed will be more than catered for by the 13kg propane tank - soon to be replaced by an LPG Gaslow system. The reviews for refillable systems are patchy, but for those intent on continental travel, the choice is essential. In the past I have used a continental gas bottle for trips abroad, but this requires switching the regulator and carrying a both UK and continental bottles.

As a test weekend, this end of April choice was perfect, providing sun, rain wind and cold. The Truma combi was effortless, giving fast hot water on demand, and blown air throughout the vehicle. As temperatures dropped, we chose to divert the bulk of heating to the lounge area, closing off the outlets to the bedroom and bathroom. This, together with the 'high' fan setting ensured a good distribution of heat. All of the electrical items operated like home - simple and effective.

Our choice of layout - twin forward sofas, forming a conjoined seating area with the swivelled cab seats - proved to be perfect. Of course this layout means only two travel seats, restricting the vehicle to couples and excluding families, but there comes a time in life when this is wise. The element of space and comfort was astonishing for such a size of vehicle, giving a real feel of luxury after the blinds had been pulled and curtains closed.

And so to bed. For the last twenty years I have climbed a ladder to the 'loft'. A Luton bed is fun when young, giving the birds-eye view across a camp site or 'Aire de Service'. But a nightly trek to the bathroom eventually robs it of its joy. Here, the fixed bed justified our choice. Nestling comfortably in the rear nearside corner of the vehicle, it is accessible without being prominent. A simple slide forward gains access to the bathroom, providing that true 'en suite' experience.

So, what of the maiden voyage? From the ease of the automatic gearbox (never leave home without one), to the sumptuous comfort on site, this luxury upgrade needs no justification.

Now, to the road, and the return journey to the dealers where the Tracker is to be left pending the final fit. We are humming easily and silently along country roads, with long views across the Tyneside country of undulating hills. Here is the freedom of motorhoming, and heralds our impatient wait for our next adventure.


Thanks to Keith Chesterfield for the video