Tales of earth travel; motorhome within the cosmos - a new perspective outside-in from a travelling, tango dancing barrister, who has teamed up with famous mid-20th century travel writer, H V Morton.
Choosing a motorhome
BBQ for motorhomers
The reason we have a motorhome is to access the great outdoors, so it makes total sense to have a barbecue on which we may cook al fresco. The question is ‘what type of BBQ should we get?’.
This blog is not intended to review products on the market, or to make a recommendation. Ask any number of motorhomers and they will have differing personal favourites. Here, we will examine the practical considerations to steer a choice.
In Argentina, Stephanie and I prefer to cook on a charcoal. Not simply traditional, charcoal imparts the perfect smokey flavour that you rarely get elsewhere. However, for a motorhome, burning charcoal is challenging, involving longer lighting and cooking times, fire risk, and on some sites, breach of regulations.
Which narrows the practical choice to LPG gas BBQs.
Question 1: van gas cylinder, or portable cannister?
Do you have an external BBQ point on your motorhome? Many modern motorhomes have precisely this, conveniently fitted on the awning side of the vehicle, providing simple connection, and for summer and continental travelling, facilitating outdoor cooking using your motorhome’s gas supply.
For those without a fixed van gas outlet, cooking on the beach is made possible with a fully portable system using lightweight disposable gas canisters. However, portable gas is not cheap and will habitually run out after 2-3 hours cooking time. As challenging, some products limit you to a proprietary brand which may be difficult to source on the road.
Question 2: where will I store my BBQ in the van?
For those with larger motorhomes exceeding 3,500 kgs, neither storage of the BBQ nor its weight need be an issue. Those of us with more modest transport should remember that the average quality BBQ weighs the same as a whippet, and with its stand, takes up a similar amount of space. Take a look at the detailed specifications of your proposed purchase, and where possible, view one in real life before you buy.
Question 3: how easy is it to clean?
Imagine this. You are wild camping. There is nowhere to wash or clean your BBQ. What now? Or, you are on one of those posh sites that prohibit the cleaning of BBQs at the washing-up block? Design for cleaning is as important as design for cooking when on the road. Again, take a look at the options face to face and ask for a demonstration.
Question 4: how versatile is it, and do I really need all of the options?
Here, we are considering both size of grill and those added extras such as pizza stones, woks and paella pans. Much depends on how you propose to use your purchase. For how many do I need to cook? Will I be setting it up outside over a period of days and lagely cooking outdoors? Do I need a ‘Jack of all trades’ or the master of one? Cooking a pizza under the awning may seem like a good idea from an armchair at home, but didn’t you already have an oven in your camper? On the other hand, cooking breakfast under the trees, or paella under the stars does sound quite appealing.
Question 5: how to connect my purchase to the van’s gas supply?
An external gas point is massively more sensible than hauling around an 11 kg cylinder; or connecting, disconnecting and storing a 4.7kg version. Gas is ‘on tap’ with safe plug-and-turn connection. But some BBQs are designed for connection direct to a cylinder, so here you may need to make some adaptations.
First, source the appropriate length of high pressure LPG hose (8mm bore / 15mm diameter). This can be purchased from a supplier or online by the metre.
(FLEXIBLE HOSES: Use only approved hoses to BS3212, BS:EN:1763 or equivalent and clips. Keep hose length as short as possible, but sufficient to give you options. All flexible hoses must be secured with proper hose clips. Make sure that the hoses are kept clear of “hot spots” and inspect them from time to time. Replace any hose that shows signs of wear, cracking or damage).
Whilst at your dealers or online, order a quick release 8mm x 8mm fulham nozzle hose connector, enabling you to detach the hose for storage, plus a quantity of 12-20mm Jubilee clips to seal any connections. I also ordered a straight hose joiner, allowing me to connect the new hose to a short length of existing hose attached to my particular appliance. Using my BBQ for home use too, I bought a spare quick release nozzle which I attached to a second section of hose and gas regulator, enabling me to attach the BBQ to a cylinder.
Finally, check out the Gaslow system. It is a pricey addition, but over time should pay for itself both in cost and convenience of refill.
In which I reveal what Henry Vollam Morton has taught me about myself
In which Henry meets an old friend on the banks of Loch Linnhe
So we leave the glen behind and reach Loch Leven where the road swings to the west along its southern shore which will take us through North Ballachulish, on to Onich and Loch Linnhe.
As we approach Loch Leven Henry picks up his 1933 copy of ‘In Scotland Again’ and reads aloud from chapter 6 section 3, 'dark mountains rising from a tidal loch, ridges of trees marching the hills like regiments, the mountains piling up in the distance towards the gloomy fastnesses of Glencoe and Lochaber, the whole scene mirrored in sleety-grey water ruffled at the edges by a fresh wind and swirling in a central channel with an incoming tide'.
In which Henry and I dine at the Courie Inn, Killin
When I returned to the table, Henry Morton was deep in conversation. “What are you up to H V?”, I ask. “Just speaking in Greek with Elleeni”, he replies.”Do you know, I haven’t had such an opportunity since researching ‘In the Steps of St Paul’ (Rich & Cowan October 1936), in which I retraced Paul’s journey from Tarsus, via the Areopagus sermon, to the scene of his martyrdom in Rome?”. “And brushing up my rusty Greek is made better by the fact that our waitress Elleeni is so young and beautiful”, he adds with a devastating 20th century smile, causing both her, and me, to blush.
It was H V’s idea to venture out to the Courie Inn in Killin in the heart of Perthshire. “I want to taste true Scotland again”, he asserted, “and somewhere different from those drafty old hotels I encountered in 1929 Dumfries and Galloway”.
‘Courie’ - Scots for ‘snuggle or nestle’, describes this place to perfection. I could see immediately its fascination for Henry. Hotel, bar and restaurant snuggling to the east edge of Sron a’ Chlachain just a little way from the Falls of Dochart at the head of Loch Tay. To get there we have hired a 1920 bullnose Morris (that Henry insists on calling ‘Maud’ for some reason) which we park at the village hall, and walk down to the inn.
Ms Jinny, Courie’s young manageress, had reserved a window table to allow H V to observe the comings and goings, and, as he is wont to do, to make the odd jotting in his notebook.
At Henry’s insistence we share a ‘Wee Tasty’ - haggis, Stornoway black pudding and a wee tattie scone. “This is Scotland in perfect parcels”, announces H V as he pours creamy whisky and chive sauce. Our main dish is succulent, tender Lamb rump on a bed of mash, peas and roasted vegetables.
“All good inns should possess a boast”, he asserts as he scribbles in his notebook, “and Courie Inn’s boast is the most divine food served by two angels”. “When you write about it, remember to tell them I said so”, he adds wistfully. And so, faithfully, I do.
Replete, we depart Courie Inn through the public bar and its lively group of locals and visitors chatting to the sound of draft beer being pulled from the cask. Outside, low cloud has descended in the darkness, and mizzle drifts sideways across pavement flags.
“Tomorrow, if it is fine, we shall need to walk off our supper”, reflects HV, “now, which of the Munros should we scale?”, he continues, “Ben Lawers or Beinn Ghlas?”.
“Let’s find the car and leave tomorrow to take care of itself”, I reply, as we splash our way out along the Main Street in the direction of Fingal Stone and the loch.
In which Henry takes me to Wigtown for a book
Margaret and Agnes Wilson were the daughters of Gilbert Wilson, a prosperous farmer. Gilbert and his wife conformed, and attended Episcopalian services in the parish church. Their children refused, so their father was fined by the Courts, and had soldiers billeted upon him. They stole his stock and possessions leaving him all but ruined.
With the death of Charles II in February 1685, there was hope for a lull in persecution. The young Wilson girls, Margaret and Agnes, came down from the hills to live with Margaret McLachlan, a 63 year old widow. A local man betrayed them when they came into Wigtown, and the two girls were taken prisoner. At the same time, Margaret McLachlan was seized while at prayer in her own home. The women were required to take the Oath of Abjuration which, a year earlier on the order of the Privy Council, had been administered to everyone in the County over the age of 13 years.
Refusal to swear the Oath allowed execution without trial; men could be hanged or shot; a new sentence had been introduced for women: death by drowning. The women refused the Oath and were brought before the Commission. The Commissioners, described as ‘five of the most vicious scoundrels in Scotland’ found the three women guilty on all charges and they sentenced them ‘to be tyed to palisadoes and fixed in the sand, within the flood mark, at the mouth of the Blednoch stream, and there to stand till the flood over flowed them, and [they] drowned”. Agnes (aged only thirteen at the time) was reprieved when her father promised to pay a huge bond of £100.
On 30 April 1685, a pardon was issued in Edinburgh for the two Margarets. It mysteriously disappeared. The women were taken out and tied to stakes in the waters of the Bladnoch on 11 May 1685. The older woman was tied deeper in the river channel forcing 18 year old Margaret to witness her death, in the hope that she would relent. Instead, she seemed to take strength from the older woman’s fate, singing a psalm, and quoting scripture.
The Penninghame parish records say that Margaret Wilson’s head was held up from the water, beseaching her to pray for the King. She answered that she wished the salvation of all men, but the damnation of none.
The Kirkinner records state that Margaret McLachan’s head had been “held down within the water by one of the town officers by his halberd at her throat, til she died”. A popular account adds that the officer said “then tak’ another drink o’t my hearty”. Legend has it that for the rest of his life the man had an unquenchable thirst, and had to stop and drink from every ditch, stream, or tap he passed, and he was deserted by his friends.
Henry and I gaze out across the now boggy marsh beyone the cross marking the place of execution. Gulls rise in the distance and two black crows cawk from a nearby ash. A chill breeze blows through the willows.
“We had better go for that earlier bus”, says HV. “Somehow, I no longer have the desire for a pint in the Galloway Inn”, he continues, pulling down his felt fedora and knocking the bowl of his pipe against the wooden rail.


