Twinwood Trail

Friday 15 December 1944, at 40 years of age, Glenn Miller left RAF Twinwood  to fly with two others to Paris. Their single engined plane disappeared over the English Channel, leaving behind a huge chasm in the big band world.

Miller's music remained; and seventy three years after his death, the Glenn Miller Orchestra under Ray McVay returned to Twinwood. So did we.

This blog is about our third visit to the Twinwood Festival at Clapham near Bedford. It is about music, dancing, vintage, camping and friendship; and gives a little glimpse into two decades of Twentieth Century.

It is just before noon on Thursday 24 August. Stephanie and I are passing through Milton Ernest on the A6 Bedford Road  in our Auto Trail Tracker. As we approach Church Green a dark green Hillman Fourteen pulls out sharply in front of us from the entrance to Milton Ernest Hall. The hurrying driver is Lt Col Norman F Baessell, the off side passenger pilot F/O John Morgan. We catch a momentary view of a man in the rear near side seat. He appears tall and slim with rimless spectacles. His black hair is brushed back with Brylcreem, revealing a high and distinguished forehead. We catch the sound of voices, and discern an American accent.

Within a mile, the Hillman turns into Milton Road and a mile later into Twinwood Road taking the entry to Twinwood airfield. Whilst we wait in a row of stationary motorhomes and caravans, it speeds unhindered towards the control tower, skidding to a halt on the cinders by a stubby UC-64 Norseman. By the time we enter the airfield, the plane is leaving the runway climbing into a mackerel sky. I squint into the southern sun, but all I see is a greying dot. From behind the control tower comes the sound of Moonlight Serenade. He has left; but his legacy remains.

This, our third Twinwood visit, is marked by supreme organisation. The Twinwoodians, headed by Zoe and John Wolicki, Ann and Peter Barrett, Stephanie Rose and me have reserved five adjacent camping pitches on Campsite B, just a short stroll from the access track to the arena. Having overnighted at Grafham Water, we are the first to arrive. We take an end pitch as gatehouse and set up camp. Within the hour other Twinwoodians arrive, and by nightfall we sport a full-size living room (courtesy of Peter Lewis) and a flamingo decorated bedroom (courtesy of John Wolicki). Before long Stephanie and I are dancing.

There are some things you really need to know about thriving at Twinwood before you come.

The first is how to dress. Most first-timers cautiously take an understated line, hoping to blend into the background. At Twinwood there is no background, other than seventy years of fashion history. You can survive without food or alcohol - but not without your best vintage wardrobe. Twinwood is about dressing to impress. Nothing is 'over the top' - there is no top. There is a bottom occupied by the few dowdy day trippers who have self consciously not made the effort. Here are the best-pressed uniforms, the handmade shoes, 1940's buttoned dresses, 1950's circle skirts filled with petticoats, tweed suits with fob watches, trilby hats and spats. You simply have to dress to enter the era - whichever one you have chosen to access.

Second - get talking. Twinwood is about bands, music and dance. But it is also about a cultural history - a time when people greeted each other, knew their neighbours, complimented and engaged. Anonymity has no place at Twinwood. It is possible to be shy and reserved, but the greatest joy comes from meeting other enthusiasts, some of whom have created whole new personas for you to explore. So ditch the reserve, make eye contact, conversation and find out their story.

Third - the performances. With acts like 'The Manfreds' it is tempting to play it safe, park your folding chairs in the arena, and take up residence there for the weekend. Our advice is 'forget the big names, and hunt out new talent'. With thirteen venues - Arena, Control Tower, Colonial Club, Le Monde Electrique, Moonshine Glade, Liberty Stage, Nags Head, Casablanca Club, Cafe de Bois de Jumeau, Dance Marquee, Hangar Bar, Tin Hat & Carnaby Club and Soulshack - it is quite possible to find enough gems for an eternity ring. For 2017 there were 55 acts over 4 days. As will be evident from the Twinwoodians Facebook page, the headline acts were less of interest than the peripheral performers who produced acts to delight.

 Fourth - dance. Many visitors to Twinwood don't dance either by choice, necessity or inability. It is not a problem for there are dozens of foot-tapping events that will keep you entertained for hours on end, or simply watch Twinwoodians Neil and Carla Warren, the award winning ballroom experts. But with such great bands and fabulous music spanning the 40's to the 70's, being able to get onto the dance floor makes a huge difference to how you will feel about the weekend. Each day there are dance classes at all levels covering Swing, Lindy, Charleston, Balboa and Rock & Roll in the Colonial Club, Marquee, and Tin Hat. Get along to find a partner or learn a few solo steps. Better, take a few modern jive lessons before you come, so you can hit the floor dancing.

Twinwood 2017 was a massive hit, blessed with glorious sunshine. Eight raindrops fell on Saturday before we woke, and thereafter all that remained was for the stewards to complain about a sea of parasols in the arena. Will Twinwood 2018 be so kind? We hope so, and trust that you too will enjoy this headline event with great bands and new friends.