Cosmic Northumberland

Packed, including Champagne.....and the sat nav is programmed for Northumberland.

This short trip starts today, Wednesday, and we shall return on Sunday - taking in River Breamish just north of Powburn on the A697; and then progressing on to Berwick-on-Tweed, right on the edge of the Northumbrian coast.

It seemed strange getting back into the Tracker, with memories still fresh of twenty years in the CI. Here in the Auto Trail, seats embrace as the automatic gear-change effortlessly lifts the speed. The van sits firmly on the road, and but for the high riding position, gives an almost 'car-like' ride. Henry (the given voice of the sat nav soon warns that I am 'exceeding the speed limit'.

For such a size of vehicle, it is remarkably quiet, both within and without. The 1.3l (150hp) engine is soft and leisurely, showing little strain, except on the steepest incline when the hill-climb setting comes into play. Most of the internal noise results from packing error, with an unseated hob tapping the glass cover, and a series of forks tuning themselves in a cutlery drawer. It is only now that I am getting to appreciate the build quality: thick insulation, dense flooring and tight joinery work speak of a quality that is often absent with other manufacturers. The hard suspension, ubiquitous with Fiat, Ford and Mercedes, is the one aspect that reminds that I am driving a van.

With delays in departure for packing and diesel, I run the A1 near Newcastle towards rush hour. I decide to top-up the Gaslow leisure gas bottle LPG system despite having 8 litres spread between two cylinders, so that I can tick another 'first' from my list.

Gaslow refillable bottle gas is a Princess of gas delivery (the Queen being the expensive steel refillable gas tanks attached to the vehicle chassis). It comprises a principal gas bottle, linked to a smaller 'spare', the whole system being remotely filled or topped up via an externally mounted filler, similar to those found on LPG powered cars. Gas is then delivered via the regulator on demand to the heating, refrigeration and cooking appliances when not programmed to operate on 130v mains electric.

My selected gas dealer having closed early - too soon for my visit, I selected the next nearest LPG service station, offering a 59p/litre charge. Filling is relatively simple once the rules are understood, but the filling process is slow, so be warned. The system accommodates a further 6.3 litres, which takes the tanks up to their 80% safety capacity before automatically shutting off the flow. I pay £3.72, and have the knowledge that, irrespective of gas use, I will have more than enough for this trip and many to come.

Leaving the A1 north of Morpeth, the A697 runs straight towards Coldstream south of the Scottish border. Powburn lies just to the north of Rothbury in glorious Northumbrian countryside. Here hills roll towards fells, with small fringes of Scotts Pine ranged along the ridges. We see the last cattle outside Pauperhaugh and enter sheep country. It is May and the lambs are still small here, the season being a good three weeks behind the lower lands. We turn off towards Branton and after half a mile reach River Breamish site.

This is part of the Caravan Club network, a 10 acre site at the foot of the Cheviots, offering 75 pitches most of which are hardstanding. Along both side and rear are fascinating nature reserves set amidst old quarry lakes with well-constructed hides, and beyond runs the river, brown with peat. This is a twitcher's paradise if birds are your thing. If not, the drama of nature is still a compelling reason to visit, with extensive walks into unspoilt countryside.

Our chosen pitch backs against a tree-lined bank and faces into the main site. This has to be one of the most carefully cared Caravan Club sites in the region, but perhaps needs a further five years for the openness to fold and mature.

Our departure is again north west on the A697 to Wooler, and then the picturesque B6525 due north towards Berwick-on-Tweed. Berwick Seaview deserves its name - a 6 acre Caravan Club site situated in terraces high above Tweedmouth with views across to the ancient border town of Berwick and the North Sea. A popular site, just off the A1 London to Edinburgh road, booking is essential. Our allocated pitch 23 was towards the end of the site with restricted sea view, so you may wish to specify one of the more favoured of the 93 pitches when you book.

A visit to Berwick is not for the site - but for the town, a historic fortified holding to keep the Scots from invading England. Still walled, with massive granite blocks, the town combines the best of British history with a still-working port. It offers an immense variety of town walks and coastal strolls. It also offers Keith's Pier Red, arguably one of the best coffee-and-art shops in Europe. Having recently returned from Buenos Aires, we are skilled in tracking good coffee, and here is a place that rivals the best of those we have visited. And with your coffee, try the coffee and walnut cake, made locally and lovingly to delight.

Now, I hear you ask, why bring Champagne to Berwick-on-Tweed?

There is one simple and compelling reason, and it lies at the foot of Tweedmouth on Dock Road, just below the site. Descend there to meet with brothers Douglas and Graham Flannigan who operate the Berwick Shellfish Company. This is a family concern, founded by parents George and Phyllis Flannigan in 1969. The factory seafood shop opened in 2014 and is now part of the business success story. We choose prepared lobster and a separate seafood platter with king prawns and crab meat. The more adventurous may wish to cook their own lobster, or taste an exotic chilli and lime salmon.

The cork pops, our glasses are charged, and we set about succulent, soft lobster and crab. The last rays of sunshine break through hurrying clouds and we settle back to enjoy our latest meal in the Tracker.

Why travel further, when here is such delight?

Time to get closer to the cosmos

When the wind whips from the west, carrying shoals of raindrops that lash against the polymer side of the van. When dusk drops and late flashes of sun light the North Sea-scape ahead. When the roof lights are sealed, blinds dropped and curtains drawn, and the boiler chugs soft warmth across the thick rug. A late leaf scurries across the roof. The aroma of roast lamb rises from the Thetford oven, and high altitude Malbec splashes into crystal glasses.

Now is one of those moments that affirm the motorhome; that speak to opportunity and freedom; that say 'we have stepped away from the knotty path of routine, work and confusion - into a peaceful cosmos'.

It is spring in England and outside there should be a warm breeze rather than a bitter blow. After nine weeks of dancing tango in Buenos Aires, where temperatures oscillated between 26 and 34 degrees, this experience is savage. And, of course, truly testing of the Tracker.

With twenty years in the CI Mizar, the feel of the Tracker is a totally new experience - grounded, solid and sophisticated. On the road, the van is firm and responsive, without the 'roll' of the earlier motorhomes. Here on site, systems respond to the touch of a button, heating slipping into life and hot water on demand.

We look out over the bay. Clouds race and only feint wave crests separate their grey, and the grey of the sea. Inside we have a feeling of peace, comfort and, save for the gentle hum of the heating fan, silence. A special moment, which if bottled, would carry the label of a truly fine wine.

First trip in the Tracker

With thanks to rolandsrambles for the photo

Why Whitley Bay, I hear you ask? Well, with one of the finest sea-views in England from a Caravan Club site, why not? It is also within 40 minutes drive of Tyne Valley Motorhomes.

Our later delivery of the new Autotrail Tracker motorhome means that we arrive at Old Hartley, situated just to the north of Whitley Bay, as a pink sun starts to sink to the west. The effect, of course, is to drench this pleasant, sloping site in evening light - and to light up the light house sitting out in the bright blue bay.

When the Caravan Club boast that here is the best view on the network, they have to be right. It is stunning, especially at this time of day. The assistant warden is waiting ready to log us in and allocate a pitch. We elect number 14, looking out to sea, standing on slightly higher ground.

The whole site slopes towards the cliffs, which given the headland shape, provides a panoramic view from Seaton Sluice down towards Tynemouth. St Mary's Island stands majestically in the centre. Formerly a coast guard station with working lighthouse beacon, it is now owned by the county and used as a social resource for school trips, education, and of course as a nature reserve. Here a plethora of seabirds dress the rocks, rock pools team with crabs, seals lift their noses on the rising tide, and Harbour porpoise flash in formation as they follow the fishing boats.

We roll forward onto levelling blocks, as the pitch drops away slightly to the front. Here Milenco Quattro come into their own, especially when used with the level indicator. This is a 'no awning' site, so the pitches are narrow, but serviceable. The slope of the site allows each pitch its own view out to sea.

The Omni-step slides out and we connect to 230v. With just over half the 100l fresh water tank filled, we are fit for the weekend. Such gas as is needed will be more than catered for by the 13kg propane tank - soon to be replaced by an LPG Gaslow system. The reviews for refillable systems are patchy, but for those intent on continental travel, the choice is essential. In the past I have used a continental gas bottle for trips abroad, but this requires switching the regulator and carrying a both UK and continental bottles.

As a test weekend, this end of April choice was perfect, providing sun, rain wind and cold. The Truma combi was effortless, giving fast hot water on demand, and blown air throughout the vehicle. As temperatures dropped, we chose to divert the bulk of heating to the lounge area, closing off the outlets to the bedroom and bathroom. This, together with the 'high' fan setting ensured a good distribution of heat. All of the electrical items operated like home - simple and effective.

Our choice of layout - twin forward sofas, forming a conjoined seating area with the swivelled cab seats - proved to be perfect. Of course this layout means only two travel seats, restricting the vehicle to couples and excluding families, but there comes a time in life when this is wise. The element of space and comfort was astonishing for such a size of vehicle, giving a real feel of luxury after the blinds had been pulled and curtains closed.

And so to bed. For the last twenty years I have climbed a ladder to the 'loft'. A Luton bed is fun when young, giving the birds-eye view across a camp site or 'Aire de Service'. But a nightly trek to the bathroom eventually robs it of its joy. Here, the fixed bed justified our choice. Nestling comfortably in the rear nearside corner of the vehicle, it is accessible without being prominent. A simple slide forward gains access to the bathroom, providing that true 'en suite' experience.

So, what of the maiden voyage? From the ease of the automatic gearbox (never leave home without one), to the sumptuous comfort on site, this luxury upgrade needs no justification.

Now, to the road, and the return journey to the dealers where the Tracker is to be left pending the final fit. We are humming easily and silently along country roads, with long views across the Tyneside country of undulating hills. Here is the freedom of motorhoming, and heralds our impatient wait for our next adventure.


Thanks to Keith Chesterfield for the video

Taking delivery and first impressions

We have arrived at Tyne Valley Motorhomes here at Byermoor, Burnopfield near Newcastle.

Simon looks up with hesitation. "I was expecting you at three", he says, and smiles. "Fancy a coffee whilst you wait?" In our excitement, we have arrived early for the handover, so a trip for lunch being preferred, we leave for the Pack Horse pub nearby.

Handover is quite a ceremony. It is like a right of passage. One arrives in campervan puberty, and leave in motorhome adolescence - full of vigour and new information, keen to try out all of the new opportunities created by the vehicle. Paperwork completed, we are passed to Jack who is our handover specialist. A genuine motorhomer over twenty years (now owning a top-of-the-range Hymer), Jack knows everything about the Tracker and motorhoming. He tacks carefully like a yachtsman, gauging what we know and what we need to be told. Outside, the features and how to access them - from the bonnet release to the rear view camera, via a plethora of lockers, fuel cap and waste disposal points.

I glance at Stephanie as she takes in the technical detail. But her interest is to set foot inside, which we do after examining both outside shower and barbecue point.

Entering the Tracker FB via the single Omni-step, ones first impression is the light. Yes, a sunny Friday, but the vehicle is drenched with bright daylight and warmth. Up front it feels open, thanks to the twin-sofa layout and removable, stow-away table. A serious issue with other manufacturers was the presence of a fixed table, dominating the forward part of the living area. Some swivel, slide and turn - but the effect is that the area is claimed by table, rather than accessible for leisure. We turn and lower the cab seats, taking in the sat-nav screen which doubles as an entertainment port and rear camera view. Above the cab is the drop-down television, offering a superbly placed screen for media and DVDs.

Here in the centre of the vehicle opposite the entrance door, is the kitchen area - with full Thetford Aspire cooker, four ring hob (including 800w electric plate), 800w microwave, Dometic 80l fridge and separate freezer running on electric or gas, domestic style sink with mixer taps and clever half-cover for the basin. I reflect on how sophisticated the designers have become at utilising space and placing whatever you need as close to hand as possible. Work surface is not plentiful, but adequate given the dimensions of the van.

To the rear - extends the French bed, possibly shorter than some, with the typical tapered foot. At 6'2" in height, is this a problem? In fact, no, when sleeping at a slight angle, facilitated by the bed's width. Above, acres of lockers, to the left, useful shelves, and just beyond the end of the bed, the bathroom.

In reality, the bathroom is tight, the Thetford cassette toilet swivelling just enough to accommodate a tall user. Forward is the square hand basin, plastic of course, but looking like porcelain, topped by a large LED backlit mirror. Again, plenty of storage, with cabinets below and to one side. To the rear is the shower with double folding doors and domestic style shower head. Usefully, above the shower is a hanging point for rain wear, doubling as a drip point for clothes washing.

Finally, fore of the bathroom is the wardrobe - half-height, restricting for Stephanie's Vivien of Holloway dresses, but certainly sufficient in width for two travellers.

Jack explains the Truma combi heating system - electric, gas or combination of fuels for extra heat. Here is a blown air system that starts beneath the bathroom, effectively giving under-floor heating there, and ends up in the living space. A fast flow of water is provided by the usual pressurised system from the boiler.

Van electrics are delivered via the Siemens EC 500 power supply unit and EC325 control panel, giving all of the options of 230v, 12 v from the leisure battery and automatic switching between both.

Are we confident? Yes we are. This has been a superb presentation, helped by my previous 23 years motorhoming, but nevertheless combining the right level of information whilst avoiding overload.

Dani, our favourite mechanic from Buenos Aires completes the last minute fit and vehicle check, and then the vehicle is ours.

Where now? Whitley Bay, of course, to try it out for real. And that will be the subject for the next blog.

Approval from Stephanie